中国传统服饰-英文PPT教学文稿.ppt

中国传统服饰中国传统服饰-英文英文PPTPPTChineseCostumesTheChinesecostume,whichhasover5,000yearshistory,isjustlikealongriver.Andtodaywellpresenttheminthreeparts,HanDynasty,TangDynastyandQingDynasty.Part1 Han FuPart1 Han FuPart2 Costume in Part2 Costume in Tang Dynasty Tang Dynasty Part3 CheongsamPart3 CheongsamHanFuHanfuHanfu is also known as HanzhuangHanzhuang or HuafuHuafu，is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people.The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han,which says,then many came to the Court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han.（后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度）Standard stylehistorySpecific styleGallerybodyHistoryHanfu has a history of more than three millennia,and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor.From the beginning of its history,Hanfu(especially in elite circles)was inseparable from silk,supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperors consort,Leizu.The Shang Dynasty developed the rudiments of Hanfu;it consisted of a yi,and chang,worn with a bixi,.Vivid primary colors and green were used,due to the degree of technology at the time.the Western Zhou Dynasty，the Hanfu became looser,with the introduction of wide sleeves and jade decorations hung from the sash which served to keep the yi closed.The yi was essentially wrapped over,in a style known as jiaoling youren,or wrapping the right side over before the leftIn the Eastern Zhou Dynasty，the“deep robe”(shenyi 深衣)appeared a combination of tunic（束腰外衣）and skirt.The upper and lower halves were cut separately but sewn as a single unit.An additional change was the shaping of the left side of the costume into a corner,fastened on the chest.womenmenSince Song and Yuan,official record used Hanfu to indicate garments Hans wearDuring Liao dynasty,the emperor of Liao and Han officials wear Hanfu,and Empress and Khitan（契丹）officials wear their national clothing.During Yuan dynasty,when editing History of Liao,the officials especially made an entry for HanfuThe term Hanfu to describe the clothing system of Hans,was not often used within Hans,but was more often used in other ethnic groups and nations,to distinguish the Hans clothing system and their own clothing systemStandard styleHat and head dressInformal dressSemi-formalFormal dressCourt dressHat and headwear-garmentThe style of Han Chinese clothing can be summarized as containing garment elements that are arranged in distinctive and sometimes specific ways.This may be different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China,most notably the Manchu-influenced Chinese clothes,the qipao,which is popularly assumed to be the solely recognizable style of traditional Chinese garb.A comparison of the two styles can be seen as the following providesYi(衣):Any open cross-collar garment,and worn by both sexesPao(袍):Any closed full-body garment,worn only by men in HanfuRu(襦):Open cross-collar shirtShan(衫):Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yiQun(裙)or chang(裳):Skirt for women and menKu(褲):Trousers or pantsOn top of the garments,hats(for men)or hairpieces(for women)may be worn.One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads.The typical types of male headwear are called jin(巾)for soft caps,mao(帽)for a stiff hats and guan(冠)for formal headdress.Officials and academics have a separate set of hats for them,typically the putou(幞頭),the wushamao(烏紗帽),the si-fang pingding jin(四方平定巾;or simply,fangjin:方巾)and the Zhuangzi jin(莊子巾).A typical hairpiece for women is a ji(笄)but there are more elaborate hairpieces.Informal dressTypes include tops(yi)and bottoms(divided further into pants and skirts for both genders,with terminologies chang or qun),and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times(shenyi).(中衣)or zhongdan(中單):inner garments,mostly white cotton or silk(衫裙):a short coat with a long skirtRuqun(襦裙):a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt(褲褶):a short coat with trousersZhiduo/zhishen(直裰/直身):a Ming Dynasty style robe,similar to a zhiju shenyi but with vents at the side and stitched sleeves(i.e.the sleeve cuff is closed save a small opening for the hand to go through)Daopao/Fusha(道袍/彿裟):Taoist/Buddhist priests full dress ceremonial robesA typical set of Hanfu can consist of two or three layersThe first layer of clothing is mostly the zhongyi(中衣)which is typically the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants.The next layer is the main layer of clothing which is mostly closed at the front.There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front.Semi-formal dress A piece of Hanfu can be made semi-formal by the addition of the following appropriate items:chang(裳):a pleated skirt bixi(蔽膝):long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt zhaoshan(罩衫):long open fronted coat guan(冠)or any formal hatsFormal dressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe;equivalenttotheWesternwhite tieShenyi(深衣):a long full body garment(曲裾):diagonal body wrapping (直裾):straight lapelsYuanlingshan(圓領衫),lanshan(襴衫)or panlingpao(盤領袍):closed,round-collared robe;mostly used for official or academical dressCourt dressCourt dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch(such as an enthronement ceremony).The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate.Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear.They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue.There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions.Specific StyleHistorically,Han Clothing has influenced many of its neighbouring cultural costumes,such as Japanese kimono,yukata,Korean Hanbok and the Vietnamese otthn.Elements of Hanfu have also been influenced by neighbouring cultural costumes,especially by the nomadic peoples to the north,and Central Asian cultures to the west by way of the Silk Road.gallerynotesCostume Costume in Tang Dynastyin Tang Dynasty1、The brief introduction of costume in Tang dynasty 2、The features of costume in Tang dynasty 3、How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?BriefIntroductionTheclothingmaterialswereexquisite（精美的）Thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegantAdornmentsweresplendidComplimentedbyelaboratehairstyle,ornamentsandfacemakeupThe general features of womens costume in Tang dynasty：1)topless（上空装，袒胸装）2）exposed arm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）large sleeves5）long skirt dressAll of these make it deservethe most typical open clothingstyle.The clothing materials areexquisite,the structure isnatural,graceful and elegant,and adornments are splendid.Thisisthefamouspicture簪花侍女图showingaladystrollinginthecourtTheladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thiswascalled“topless”（上空装，袒胸装）Mindedness:theopen-mindedstate“绮罗纤缕见肌肤”“蝉翼罗衣白玉人”The open clothing style and its softness and lightness make the womens costume in Tang dynasty so unique and distinctive.The Tang women dressed in sets of garments,and each set a unique image in itself.Ingeneral,theTangwomensdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:（1）ThetraditionalruqunordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChinaPattern襦裙(Ruqun)Ruqun（襦裙）（襦裙）iswornbywomen.Whenitscollarlikestheletter“y”,wecancalledit“交领襦裙”.Ifitscollarlikesthenumber“11”,wecancalledit“对襟襦裙”.Whentheyareclassifiedbyitsheightoftheskirt，wecancalledthem“齐腰襦裙”Whichwaistbandisonthewaist.Or“齐胸襦裙”Whichwaistbandisabovethechest.（2）thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad;（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys)，thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities拘谨,礼节.AfterthereignofTangEmperorGaozong,purplewasusedasthegarmentcolorforofficialsabovethethirdgrade;lightred,officialsabovethefifthgrade;darkgreen.officialsabovethesixthgrade;lightgreen,officialsabovetheseventhgrade;darkcyan,officialsabovetheeighthgrade;lightcyan,officialsabovetheninthgrade;andyellow,ordinarypeopleandthosewhodidnotliveinthepalace.HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?First,inChinesehistory,theTangDynasty(AD618-907)wasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.Second,Basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevariety,qualityandquantityoftextilematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.Thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.Asanimportantculturalelement,womanscostumeinvariousformsintheTangDynastywellillustratestheopen-mindednessandaffluenceduringthatperiod.Third,TheTanggovernmentwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynasty(206BC-220AD)andtheSuiDynasty(581-618),theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.Willyouacceptyourgirlfriends/yourselvesdressingveryopen?OriginDevelopmentOriginnameThe namecheongsammeaningsimplylongdressenteredtheEnglishvocabularyfromthedialectofChinasGuangdongProvince.InotherpartsofthecountryincludingBeijing,however,itisknownasqipao,whichhasahistorybehindit.QingDynasty(1644),Manchu,BannerPeople(qiren).1645Shunzhi,“TifaYifu”Policy(剃发易服易服)thenext300years,becameadoptedbytheChinese.Survivedthepoliticalturmoilofthe1911XinhaiRevolutiontoppledtheQingDynasty.ThehistoryofcheongsamThedetailsofcheongsamshirtisnotexposed(衫不露外衫不露外)theright-sidelapellpelofjunctiondkndecoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰)clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣衣外加衣)increasewaistcoatwesktorjacket(增加坎肩或马褂增加坎肩或马褂)clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身衣服上下不取腰身)Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形外轮廓呈长方形)Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(马蹄袖盖手马蹄袖盖手)setrollingcraftdecoration(镶滚工艺装饰镶滚工艺装饰)flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋花盆鞋)Frog盘扣盘扣Openings衩Embroiderymbrdr刺绣刺绣Frontofagarment襟Development From 1914 to 1949From 1914 to 1949Development From 1914 to 1949From 1914 to 19491930194019301940，Peak periodPeak period western-style cutting method standard clothing of the modern Chinese women1920s1920s1930s1930s 1940s1940sQipao(Chipau)isoneofthemosttypical,traditionalcostumesforChinesewomen.Alsoknownascheongsam,itislikeawonderfulflowerintheChinesecolorfulfashionscenebecauseofitsparticularcharm.ItcandisplayChinesewomensmodesty,softnessandbeauty.Today,withthedevelopmentofthemarketeconomyinChina,Qipaohasbeentheattentionofthewholeworld,andbecomestherepresentativeofChinesebeauty.SoongQinglingthewifeofSunYat-sen,agreatwomaninChinaSoongMaylingSheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.AsaformalcostumeswhichrepresentournationalculturefrequentlyappearesintheiInternationaloccasions.FirstladysstyleChinaisahistoricalcountrywithsplendidcivilizations,inwhichtheChinesecostumeisanimportantpart.FromthechangeofChinesecostumes,wecanseethepoliticalchange,economicdevelopmentandcustomsevolvementthroughthelonghistory.Letsfellowthehistorysstep,composeanewchapterfortheChinesecostumeculture!Thanksforyourattention!结束结束