时尚奢侈品行业 (16).pdf
Global Garment Industry Factsheet Lina Stotz&Gillian Kane 1 Facts on The Global Garment Industry 1.Key Statistics Employment in Garment Industry:About 60 million1 to 75 million2 people are employed in the textile,clothing and footwear sector worldwide(2014).To compare:in 2000 only 20 million people were employed in the industry.Gender:About three quarters of garment workers worldwide are female.3 Worth of Global Garment Industry:The worlds womens wear industry 2014 is worth 621 billion USD(497 billion EUR)The mens wear industry is worth 402 billion USD(322 billion EUR)The childrens wear industry is worth 186 billion USD(estimated)(149 billion EUR);4 Other sources:World Garment Market 2012 1.7 trillion USD5(1.3 trillion EUR)World Garment Exports 2014 708 billion USD6(567 billion EUR);412 billion USD7(330 billion EUR)World Textile Exports 2012 294 billion USD8(235 billion EUR)World Garment Exports 2011 412 billion USD(325 billion EUR)9 Value of the garment industry 2010 1,781 trillion USD10(1.3 trillion EUR)1 Textiles,clothing,leather and footwear sector(International Labour Organisation)http:/www.ilo.org/global/industries-and-sectors/textiles-clothing-leather-footwear/lang-ja/index.htm accessed 16 January 2015 2 Global Fashion Industry Statistics-International Apparel(Fashion United)http:/ accessed 16 January 2015 3 Celia Mather Garment Industry Supply Chains(Women Working Worldwide)http:/www.women-ww.org/documents/www_education_pack.pdf accessed 16 January 2015 4 Melissa Breyer 25 Shocking Fashion Industry Statistics(Tree Hugger)http:/ 5 Ibid.,(n.2)6 Merchandise Trade(World Trade Organisation)http:/www.wto.org/english/res_e/statis_e/its2013_e/its13_highlights2_e.pdf accessed 16 January 2015 7 Ibid.,(n.2)8 Ibid.,(n.2)9 Ibid.,(n.2)Global Garment Industry Factsheet 2 Value of garment,textile,footwear and luxury goods industry 2010 2,560 trillion USD11(2 trillion EUR)Wage Comparison:Role Wage CEO of H&M Maximum annual bonus of SEK 0.9 million(125,500 USD;99,202 EUR)(after tax)12 Gross Salary:Unavailable Store Manager about 60,000 USD(47,400 EUR)a year(at H&M)13 Retail Worker In the lowest retail position,employees earn 9 USD(7 EUR)per hour(at H&M)14 Garment Factory Worker Amongst the countries that export to the US,Bangladesh and Cambodia have the lowest wages with 54EUR/68USD15 and 102.21 EUR/128 USD,respectively.16 Wages in Thailand are 9 USD(7 EUR)per day/234 USD(184 EUR)per month.17 Intermediary Unavailable 10 Fashion Apparel Industry Overview(Fashion Products)http:/ accessed 16 January 2015 11 Ibid.,(n.4)12 Remuneration 2014(H&M)http:/ accessed 16 January 2015 13 H&M Job Application(Job-)http:/www.job- 16 January 2015 14 Ibid.15 Rising wages squeeze Bangladesh garment workers as factories await upgrades.(Dhaka Tribune,16 April 2014)http:/ accessed 16 January 2015 16 James Hookway,Sun Narin Cambodia Sets Minimum Wage Below Union Demands(The Wall Street Journal,12 November 2014)http:/ accessed 5 February 2015 17 Thailand adopts Nationwide Minimum Wage Policy Amid Controversy(The Asia Foundation,30 January 2013)http:/asiafoundation.org/in-asia/2013/01/30/thailand-adopts-nationwide-minimum-wage-policy-amid-controversy/accessed 16 January 2015 Global Garment Industry Factsheet 3 Cotton Picker 2 USD per day(1.5 EUR)(India);18 often nothing(Uzbekistan-forced labour);19 20 21 40,000 USD per year(USA)22 Spinning Mill Worker 20 EUR to 52 EUR per month(India)23 Leading and Emerging Markets24 Developing Countries:Top Garment Producing Countries(2011)All Countries:Top Garment Importing Countries(2011)Emerging Markets:Top Emerging Garment Producing Countries (2005-2011)1.China 1.EU-28(38%of the world garment imports)25 1.Panama 2.Bangladesh 2.US(20%)26 2.Mali 3.India 3.Japan 3.Samoa 18 Humphrey Hawksley Indias exploited child cotton workers(BBC News,19 January 2012)http:/ accessed 16 January 2015 19 End Forced Labour in the Cotton Sector of Uzbekistan(Cotton Campaign)http:/www.cottoncampaign.org/accessed 16 January 2015 20 Uzbekistan:H&M Sourcing Child Picked Uzbek Cotton,claims anti-slavery group Ecouterre (International Initiative to End Child Labour,21 December 2012)http:/endchildlabor.org/?p=7106 accessed 16 January 2015 21Uzbekistans cotton industry relies on state-orchestrated forced labour of children and adults (International Labour Rights Forum)http:/www.laborrights.org/industries/cotton accessed 16 January 2015 22 Cotton Picker Salaries in Cushing,Oaklahoma(Salary Expert)http:/ accessed 16 January 2015 23 Flawed Fabrics(SOMO)http:/www.somo.nl/publications-en/Publication_4110 accessed 16 January 2015,p6 24 Takahiro Fukunishi,Kenta Goto,Tatsufumi Yamagata Aid for Trade and Value Chains in Apparel Chains in Textiles and Apparel(Institute of Developing Economics Japan External Trade Organization,World Trade Organization,Organization for Economic Co-Operation and Development,July 2013)http:/www.oecd.org/dac/aft/AidforTrade_SectorStudy_Textiles.pdf accessed 22 December 2014,p13 25 Ibid.,(n.6)26 Ibid.,(n.6)Global Garment Industry Factsheet 4 4.Turkey 4.Hong Kong,China 4.Burundi 5.Vietnam(2011)5.Canada(2011)27 5.Ethiopia 2.Economic Overview Global Market:Characteristics and Trends28 The industry is a global one:supply and value chains are spread across many countries and continents.The industry has served as a stepping stone to development in most countries.Currently the garment industry plays such a role in many least developed and developing countries.29 The late 20th century saw a period of significant change in the concentration of the garment market:since that time,the main producing and exporting countries have almost completely changed.o Example:In 1970,among the biggest exporters to US were:Japan,United Kingdom,Canada,Italy,France,etc.By 2011,the USA was receiving most imports from countries like China,Cambodia,Pakistan,Mexico,Bangladesh,etc.30 Production has,in general,shifted to least developed or developing countries.The bulk of production remains in Asia,although the production market in some non-Asian developing countries is growing:e.g.Panama,Chile Egypt.31 Countries like Turkey,Morocco and Tunisia have emerged as key players when it comes to exports to the EU-28 countries.32 Key moment of change to the markets structure:End of the Multi-Fibre Agreement33 27 Ibid.,(n.24)p14 28 Ibid.,(n.24)p22ff 29 Dr.Maximilian Martin Creating Sustainable Apparel Value Chains:A Primer on Industry Transformation(Impact Economy,December 2013)http:/ accessed 22 December 2014,p3 30 Ibid.,(n.24)p15 31 Ibid.,(n.24)p13 32 Ibid.,(n.24)p 16 Global Garment Industry Factsheet 5 The Multi Fibre Agreement(MFA)was established in 1974 to regulate global trade in garment industry.o Under this agreement,developed countries could impose quotas on imports from developing countries.o From 1995-2005,the agreement was phased out,and the MFA finally ended in 2005.o Since 2005,the global garment industry has entered a new,post quota era,and the conditions for market access have changed.Some preferential access schemes have been developed in the post-quota era.These include:o GSP Schemes o Bilateral and Multilateral Free Trade Agreements o America and EU also focusing on Africa,e.g.US African Growth and Opportunity Act(trade preferences given to certain African nations.o Aid for Trade:aid for trade schemes offer assistance to developing countries to improve the infrastructure needed for increased trade.34 Industry Structure and Global Value Chain Major Characteristic:buyer-driven chain.This means that the big retailers and marketers,and traders drive the market(i.e.they determine where to produce,what to produce and at what prices).35 These buyers are retailers and brands,typically situated in developed countries in Europe,Japan and the US.These brands do tasks such as branding,design,marketing and they outsource the production of the garments.Production:covered by the laws of the state where it is executed(e.g.Bangladesh)and by international human rights,labour law and commercial law standards(e.g.human rights treaties,ILO Conventions,codes of conduct36)The most labour intensive parts of the chain are in developing countries,whilst most knowledge intensive parts remain in developed countries.37 33 Ibid.,(n.24)pp.16-18 34 Aid for Trade(World Trade Organisation)http:/www.wto.org/english/tratop_e/devel_e/a4t_e/aid4trade_e.htm accessed 5 February 2015 35 Ibid.,p 22 36 Sweatshops are the norm in the garment industry.Were standing up to change that.(International Labour Rights Forum)http:/www.laborrights.org/industries/apparel accessed 16 January 2015 37 Ibid.,(n.24)pp 21-26 Asia dominates garment production,although the market in some noncountries is growing:e.g.Panama,Chi Recent years have also seen a change in how garments are sourced:there has been a move towards consolidation of supply chains.This is likely a result of market demand for fast fashion.39 Example Production Chain:Mango 38 Ibid.,(n.24)p 13 39 Ibid.,(n.24)p 21 40 MANGO(LinkedIn)https:/ Europe:Mango sales of 1.7 billion USD in 2012 the chain is a private company and not owned by any other large retailer Example:Cottone.g.in Uzbekistan,US,Brazil,Australia Global Garment Industry Factsheet Asia dominates garment production,although the market in some noncountries is growing:e.g.Panama,Chile Egypt38 Recent years have also seen a change in how garments are sourced:there has been a move towards consolidation of supply chains.This is likely a result of market demand for Example Production Chain:Mango https:/ accessed 16 January 2015 1.Design Branding in Europe:Mango-Barcelona,Spain40 sales of 1.7 billion USD in 2012 the chain is a private company and not owned by any other large retailer 2.Production of Raw Materials Example:Cotton in Uzbekistan,US,Brazil,Australia 3.Production of Yarn e.g.in Spinning mills in India 6 Asia dominates garment production,although the market in some non-Asian developing Recent years have also seen a change in how garments are sourced:there has been a move towards consolidation of supply chains.This is likely a result of market demand for the chain is a private company and not owned by any 41 Spains Mango takes on Retail Fashion Rivals Inditex and H&M(http:/ 2015 42 Tailored Wages(Clean Clothes Campaign,wages/view accessed 16 January 2015,p7343 Benetton and Mango:Rana Plaza Survivors Risk Losing Their Homes(http:/www.cleanclothes.org/news/2013/08/01/rana44 Mango Sustainability Report 2012(Mangohttp:/ Ibid.,(n.43)p72 The factories themselves source the fabric;the brand itself is not the buyer of the fabric in the factory,e.g.in China 42%of Mangos clothes are made in China.supply Mango are Turkey(12%),South Korea(9%),Spain(8%),Morocco(6%),Bangladesh(6%),India(5%),Vietnam(4%)Mango also produced in the Bangladeshi Rana Plaza factory that collapsed in 201243 According to Mango,their code of conduct and a series of other procedures gets enforced,controlled and followed-up.44 According to Clean Clothes Campaign,however:“Mango has yet to make any commitments at all to ensure workers in its supplier factories receive a living wageeven in its own code of conduct,although it claims it does agree with our definition of a living wage.45 5.Assembly of clothes sewing the garments(in the factory,6)in the factory,e.g.in China Finished as per the brands requests.Global Garment Industry Factsheet Spains Mango takes on Retail Fashion Rivals Inditex and H&M(The Business of Fashion,17 June 2013)om/2013/06/spains-mango-takes-on-retail-fashion-rivals-inditex-andClean Clothes Campaign,March 2014)http:/www.cleanclothes.org/resources/publications/tailoredaccessed 16 January 2015,p73 Benetton and Mango:Rana Plaza Survivors Risk Losing Their Homes(Clean Clothes Campaignhttp:/www.cleanclothes.org/news/2013/08/01/rana-plaza-survivors-losing-homes accessed 16 January 2015Mango)http:/ accessed 16 January 20154)Cutting of fabric The factories themselves source the fabric;the brand itself is not the buyer of the fabric in the factory,e.g.in China 42%of Mangos clothes are made in China.41 Other production countries that supply Mango are Turkey(12%),South Korea(9%),Spain(8%),Morocco(6%),Bangladesh(6%),India(5%),Vietnam(4%)42 Mango also produced in the Bangladeshi Rana Plaza factory that collapsed in their code of conduct and a series of other procedures gets enforced,According to Clean Clothes Campaign,however:“Mango has yet to make any commitments at all to ensure workers in its supplier factories receive a living wageeven in its own code of conduct,although it claims it does agree with our definition of a living Assembly of clothes sewing the garments(in the factory,e.g.in China)6)Finishing Work(Labelling,etc)in the factory,e.g.in China Finished as per the brands requests.7 17 June 2013)and-hm.html accessed 16 cleanclothes.org/resources/publications/tailored-Clean Clothes Campaign,2013)accessed 16 January 2015 accessed 16 January 2015 The factories themselves source the fabric;the brand itself is not the buyer of the fabric Other production countries that supply Mango are Turkey(12%),South Korea(9%),Spain(8%),Morocco(6%),Mango also produced in the Bangladeshi Rana Plaza factory that collapsed in their code of conduct and a series of other procedures gets enforced,According to Clean Clothes Campaign,however:“Mango has yet to make any commitments at all to ensure workers in its supplier factories receive a living wage,even in its own code of conduct,although it claims it does agree with our definition of a living 46 Behind the Brand(Mango)http:/ 2015 47 Mango news and facts history(Fashion United,accessed 4th February 2015 48 How Mango used Localisation and Internationalisation to Conquer High Street Global Fashion(2013)accessed 4th February 201549 Ibid.,(n.42)7.)Intermediary between factory and brand to bring the clothes from the production country to retail country E.g.located in China,and co 8.)Logistics of the BrandIn order to bring the clothes to all franchises Mango has its own logistics system 9.)Marketing and Retailing In the export destinations,e.g.EU:Mangos largest number of stores is in Spain,but it also has stores in Africa,the Americas and Asia.Global Garment Industry Factsheet http:/ United,March 2007)accessed 4th February 2015 Intermediary between factory and brand to bring the clothes from the production country to retail country located in China,and co-ordinates transport from factory to the brand.Logistics of the Brand In order to bring the clothes to all franchises Mango has its own logistics system Marketing and Retailing In the export destinations,e.g.EU:Mangos largest number of stores is in Spain,but it also has stores in Africa,the Americas and Asia.47 48In total,Mango has 2,598 stores.8 http:/ accessed 16 http:/www.fashionunited.co.uk/news/mango.htm How Mango used Localisation and Internationalisation to Conquer High Street Global Fashion(Kwintessential,October internationalisation-to-conquer-ordinates transport from factory to the brand.In order to bring the clothes to all fran
