维多利亚服装.ppt

Let us take you on a tour of womens clothing in Victoria fashion in the 19th century.Special bonnets（软帽）Bonnets,replacing the great hats,changed the whole character of day dresses.In 1835,The look of demure prim gentility was emphasized by the loss of the great hats for bonnets.In 1836 Gigot sleeves collapsed abruptly.Costume began to develop the sentimental early Victorian look we associate with Queen Victorias early rule.The early sentimental Victorian look often used to depict ladies of the era,c1838 By 1840 the collapsed sleeve was much narrower All the boned bodice（胸衣）seam lines and trims were directional to emphasize the small waistsBy 1845 the boned bodice（胸衣）was even more elongated into a V shape.This meant that an early Victorian womans arm movements were restricted.Flounces（荷叶边）were added in the early 1840s to make the skirts appear wider.Beautiful flounces Cartridge pleats(筒打褶）were used at first to draw the skirt fabric in 1841Cartridge pleatsLater by 1850 the word crinoline began to mean the whole of the beehive shaped skirt（蜂巢状裙子）.It was then only another step to call the later artificial or cage hooped support frame petticoats after 1856,crinolines.Factors Affecting the Fashion Silhouette after 1860sewing machine（缝纫机）had been invented couture design（服装设计）played a more important role in clothes world synthetic dyes(合成染料）made it possible to have intense colors（强烈色彩）Crinoline（裙撑）domed skirt silhouette towards the garment back.Clothing designerCharles WorthHe was a great designer,and he designed an overskirt,which caught on in England after 1868.The new Princess gown The Princess gown was cut in one piece and consisted of a number of joined panels fitted and gored from shoulder to hem Later Princess styles were slimmer and much more form fitting.Sleeves in day dresses were often of a banana shape.Another top skirt _ apron Rounder waistlines were fashionable and even began to rise very slightly Ball gowns with a train From 1870,ball gowns always had a train.Soon by 1873 the train was seen in day dress.soft polonaise bustle styles By 1875 these styles became so extreme the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garmentTrains were very heavily ornamented the Late Victoria AgeThis fascinating era didnt end with the death of Queen Victoria.Many historians believe that the so-called“Victorian”end is after the end of the First World War.The Princess Line SheathThe soft polonaise style bustle styles were replaced by Princess sheath garments Dress with cuirasse bodiceThe cuirasse bodice was corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creating the look of a body encased in armour.The New Hard Bustle of 1883.It had minimal drapery compared to the former and a slimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice,with a much flatter front.The sharper tailored jacket fashion gave them a different posture with a more confident air reflecting the ideals of early female emancipation.The gowns of the 1880s were almost always made in two colours of material The leg of mutton sleevesThe leg of mutton sleeves continued to develop and sprouted high above the shoulders,By 1895 the sleeves swelled into enormous puffs similar to those of 1833.As happened in 1830 to balance the huge shoulders the skirt widened and flared,whilst keeping the waist tight and handspan narrow.Need freedom The leader of the women liberation movement _ Clara Zetkin In 1887,Smith Astor from the UK wore trousers and declared:”Pants are not only comfortable,healthy,but dignified.”Victorias costume had not only changed the development of costume arts and the progress of the society,but also improved the status of women.In our view,Victorian costumes are beautiful and luxuriant.Its the noble symbol.But,when women at that time wore the breathless garment and the heavy bustle,who can understand their pain?That was bound under the beautiful appearance is their soul.When the skirt robe replaced by trousers,womens status had undergone earth-shaking changes.Not only were they freed from the shackles of social conventions,but also clothing arts was pushed to another peak.荷叶边lotus leaf立领collarmulti-layered cake cutting（多层次蛋糕裁剪),Victorian costume featuresVictorian costume features Victorian style are Victorian style are from 1837 to 1901,from 1837 to 1901,during the reign of during the reign of Queen.Queen.In the conservative In the conservative Victorian era,the Victorian era,the need for pure culture,need for pure culture,women must put their women must put their tightly wrappedtightly wrappedhigh waist（高腰)wrinkle(褶皱leg of mutton sleeves（羊腿袖）蝴蝶结bowsCorset（紧身褡）women with high social status would wear corsets,which drags to the ground with a long skirt,and fastens the waist.Wearing this tight-fitting suit seems elegance.Clothes in Victorian Period bowler hat（“波乐帽波乐帽”)Tailcoat(燕尾服燕尾服）Scottish kilt(基尔特）基尔特）British Style(英伦风英伦风）Part one typical clothes in Great Britainbowler hat（“波乐帽”）The most prominent of England national dress is the English gentlemans bowler hat.The bowler hat,also known as a coke hat,is a hard felt hat with a rounded crown originally created in 1849。Traditionally,the British nobility,distinguished celebrities have to wear this hat.Today,in the streets of major cities,such hats have been rare,but not disappeared.tailcoat(燕尾服燕尾服)Tailcoats originated in the United Kingdom,in the 18th century,evolved from the cavalry service.The historical reason that coats were cut this way was to make it easier for the wearer to ride a horse.But it is extremely beautiful.This makes the other branches to follow up.Thus,cavalry clothing had become fashion among civilians and officials and popular in Britain and its colonies.Over the years tailcoats of varying types have evolved into forms of formal dress for both day and evening wear.