中国传统服饰(英文)-PPT.ppt
Chinese Traditional CostumeChinese Traditional Costume Han Dynasty Sui and Tang dynasties Song and Yuan dynasties Ming and Qing Dynasties the Republic of China Modern societyHanfu Hanfu is known as Hanzhuang,is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people.The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han,which says,then many came to the court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han.(后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度)Yi(衣)：Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexes.Pao(袍)：Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymen.Ru(襦)：Opencross-collarshirt.Shan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyi.Qun(裙)orchang(裳)：Skirtforwomenandmen.Ku(裤)：Trousersorpants.The structureInformal dress Typesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes)Semi-formal dress chang(裳):apleatedskirt bixi(蔽膝)：longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbelt.zhaoshan(罩衫)：longopenfrontedcoatFormal dress Xuanduan(玄端)：averyformaldarkrobe,equivalenttotheWesternwhitetie Shenyi(深衣)：alongfull-bodygarment Curving-frontrobe(曲裾):diagonalbodywrapping Panlingpao(盤领袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialdressCostume in Tang Dynastyp ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangDynastyp ThefeaturesofcostumeinTangDynastyp HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?ContentsTang Dynasty FromtheSuitotheTang,theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak.Thepoliticalstability,economicdevelopment,manufacturingandtextiletechnology,andthefrequentforeignrelationscontributedtothedevelopmentofclothing.Theclothinginthisperiodhadformedthemostfantasticchapterintheclothinghistory.Features ThegeneralfeaturesofwomenscostumeinTangdynasty:topless(上空装，袒胸装）exposedarm obliquecollar largesleeves longskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.Features Thisisthepicture BeautiesWearingFlowers showingaladystrollinginthecourt.Theladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thisiscalled“topless”TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueinitself.Features Ingeneral,theTangwomensdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:Thetraditionalruqun(襦裙)ordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina.Features Thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys),thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalitiesFeatures How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?Frist,inChinesehistory,theTangDynastywasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.Second,basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevarietyqualityandquantityoftexitlematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?Third,theTanggovementwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandSuiDynasty,theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.Thankyouforyourlistening!Song DynastyCostumeofSongDynasty(960-1279)wassimpleandnatural,reflectingthedevelopmenttendencyoftheera.ThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtobeconservative,impressingpeoplewithsimple,pureandelegantfeelings.Themaincharacteristicsofwomensclothingarenarrow,long,thin.唐代文化是一种开放的类型，但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型，两者有很大的差异，宋代在政治上虽然开放民主，但由于“程朱理学”的思想禁锢，和对外政策的妥协退让，服饰文化不再艳丽奢华，而是简洁质朴。宋代强调“存天理，灭人欲”的观念，使人的个体对立性全部仰制了，对妇女的约束也推到了极点，所以宋代女装拘谨、保守，色彩淡雅恬静，宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚，还是一般的百姓，都爱穿着直领,对襟的褙子，因为既舒适得体，又显得典雅大方。Song DynastyTheclothingstyleofSongDynastyischaracterizedbyitselegance.Menusuallyworegownswithroundcollars,whilewomenworeshortjacketsorcoatswithmatchingshortrobesorChinese-stylejacketswithbuttonsdownthefront.Thiselegantstylewasinfluencedbythedressofthenorthernminoritypeoples.Gauzepants.SouthernSongdynasty.Chayuanshan,Fuzhou,Fujianprovince.Thispairofpantsismadefromextremelythingauzedecoratedwithpreciousobjects(goldingots,swastikas,coral,rhinocerotichorns,dharmawheels),lozengesandflowers,allarrangedinanelegantandorderlymanner.PantsinthisstylewerepopularintheSongdynastyandusuallywornunderalongskirt.Song DynastyIthasalreadybeganfoot-bindingintheSongdynastywhensancunjinlianhascameintobeing.三寸金莲 Yuan DynastyTheYuanDynasty(1279-1368)wastheamalgamationageofethnicgroupsinChinashistory,andthedressesandpersonaladornmentsofthistimealsofullyrepresentedthisfeature.ThecostumesofYuanDynastyhasnofixedstyle,themainstyleisrobe.Thereislittledifferenceinrobebetweenmenandwomen.However,duetotheCharacteristicofnation,thegarmentsinYuanDynastyaredividedintoMongolianstyleandHanstyle.Yuan Dynasty蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟冠”，高约70 100 厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽形；外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱。Yuan DynastyZhisunfu:质孙服上衣下裳，上紧下短，并在腰间加襞(b）积，肩背挂大珠Zhisunfuwasjustformulatedin1321duringthereignofYuanEmperorYingzongbyreferringtoancientsystems:upperandlowershortgarmentswerepiecedtogether;foldswereaddedtothewaistline,andbigbeadswerehungonshouldersandtheback.Emperorsandofficialsinallranksworesuchgarments,andtheHanpeoplecalledthemastheYiseyi.（一色衣）.Yuan Dynasty Yuan Dynasty元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽”，有方圆两种样式，顶中装饰有珠宝。Qing DynastyDuringtheQingDynasty,clotheswereelegantandpoised(雍容华贵的).Peopleatthattimeworeclothesbefittingtheirsocialstatus,officialranks(社会地位)andlifestyleaccordingtotheregulationsoftheQinggovernment.Theornamentationofformal(chaofu)andsemi-formal(jifu)courtrobesincludedthedragonmotiftogetherwithadecorativerepresentationoftheChineseconceptionofthecosmos.Thedragonsymbolisedtheemperor,knownastheSonofHeaven,andpermissiontoweartherobewasgivenbyhim.Thosewhopassedthecivilserviceexaminationsandattainedthestatusofagovernmentofficialwerealsograntedtheprivilegeofwearingcourtrobes.Rankwasfurtherdistinguishedbyahierarchyofcolourandornamentation.ThecheongsamisaneminentlyfeatureofQizhuangcostume,whichstillhascertainimpactsonmoderncostume.Especially,alongwiththedevelopmentofChina,acheongsamthatdemonstrateswomenscurvaceousbeautyhasbecometherepresentativegarmentoftheHanpeople,asitcanshowthefemininityandtemperamentoforientalladies.Main Characteristics shirt is not exposed(衫不露外)the right-side lapel of junction decorated with buttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰)clothing plus clothing(衣外加衣)increase waistcoat or jacket(增加坎肩或马褂)Main Characteristics clothes do not get the waist down(衣服上下不取腰身)Rectangular outline(外轮廓呈长方形)Horseshoe-shaped sleeve cover hand(马蹄袖盖手)set rolling craft decoration(镶滚工艺装饰)flowerpot shoes(花盆鞋)The Chinese traditional costume CheongsamContentsl The definition of cheongsam l The evolution of cheongsaml The structure of cheongsaml Representative figuresDefinition Qipao(Chi pao)is one of the most typical,traditional costumes for Chinese women.Also known as cheongsam,it is like a wonderful flower in the Chinese colorful fashion scene because of its particular charm.The evolution The late Qing DynastyIn 1919,the Ordinance（法令）about garments（服装）was announced by the National Government and cheongsam was established to be the national garments.In 1920s In the early Republic of China,the cheongsam began to be popular again.From the 1950s to 1960sIn 1950s and 1960s,cheongsams began to show up again in the peoples lives.From the 1930s to 1940s 1930s and 1940s saw the cheongsam in its peak fashion.Golden Era The evolution In modern times Popular again now.From 1966 to 1976 Cultural Revolution,disasterThe evolutionFrog Frog 盘扣盘扣The structure立领襟衩Mandarin collar Mandarin collar 立领立领Lapel Lapel 襟襟Openings Openings 衩衩embroideryembroidery刺绣The style Sleeves:wide sleeves,narrow and long sleeves,middle sleeves,short sleeves or sleeveless.Jin（襟）:round Jin,straight Jin,slanting Jin(斜襟),double Jin（双襟）,Pipa Jin（琵琶襟）,and so on.Collar(领):high collar,low collar，or collarless.Openings（开衩）:high openings,low openings,no openinglong sleevesshort sleeves sleevelessHigh collarCollarlessLow collarRepresentative figures 张爱玲 Eileen Chang(1920-1995)A well-known writer，be addicted to cheongsam.Life is a colorful gown,covered with lice.宋美龄 Soong May-ling(1897-2003)First lady in Republic of China.旗袍第一夫人 She owns the most number of qipao all over the world.邓丽君Where there are Chinese there is her voice,she really made the beauty of the cheongsam,cheongsam accomplished her legend.In the film In the Mood for Love（似水年华），Maggie Cheung（张曼玉）change more than 23 sets of qipao,after the movie release.It set off a rush of“cheongsam hot.Cheongsam reflects the elegant charm of oriental women玉脂白Expo(展览会)2010 Shanghai China Cheongsam for Miss Manners青花瓷宝蓝Thank you!现代民族服饰现在，民族服饰是指各民族本身文化中独有特色的服饰，也可以称为地方服饰或民俗服饰。由于我国民族众多，我今天重点介绍一下苗族服饰和白族服饰。苗族服饰是我国所有民族服饰中最为华丽的服饰，既是中华文化中的一朵奇葩，也是历史文化的瑰宝。Modern Ethnic Clothing Nationaldressistheuniquecultureofthenationsownuniquecostumes,canalsobecalledlocaldressorfolkcostumes.Becauseofthemanyethnicgroupsinourcountry,IwillfocusontheMiaocostumeandBaiclothing.Miaocostumearethemostgorgeouscostumesofallethnicgroupsinourcountry.ItisnotonlyawonderfulflowerinChineseculture,butalsoatreasureofhistoricalculture.Miao costume Pleatedcoat（对襟短衣）Widelegpants（宽腿裤）Pleatedskirtwithdifferentlength（长短不同的百褶裙）Colorfulheaddress（多姿多采的头饰）Miao costume Whitegown（白布长衫）Greenclothpants（青布裤）Brightcolorofthewaistcoat（色泽艳丽的坎肩）Headbandtoweringfeathercrown（头带巍峨羽冠）白族崇尚白色，衣物以白色为贵。再配以色彩对比明快而映衬协调、挑绣精美的披挂，充分反映了白族人在服装艺术上的高度智慧。白族服饰Bai clothing Baiadvocatewhite,whiteclothesforyourclothes.Matchedwiththecontrastofbrightcolorandthebackgroundofcoordination,pickembroideredexquisitecloth,fullreflectstheBaipeopleintheclothingartofthehighdegreeofwisdom.Bai clothingThewhitescarf（白头巾）Redwaistcoat（红坎肩）Whiteshirt（白上衣）Embroidery“Hundredshoes”（绣花“百节鞋”）Bai clothing Thewhitebreastedjacket（白色对襟衣）Blackcollarcoatjacket（黑领挂外套）Satincollarcoat（绸缎领褂）LittleanddaintyEmbroideredPurse（小巧玲珑的绣花荷包）
