中国传统服饰英文ppt课件.ppt

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1、Chinese Costumes The Chinese costume, which has over 5,000 years history, is just like a long river. And today well present them in three parts, Han Dynasty, Tang Dynasty and Qing Dynasty.Part1 Han FuPart1 Han FuPart2 Costume in Part2 Costume in Tang Dynasty Tang Dynasty Part3 CheongsamPart3 Cheongs

2、amHan Fu HanfuHanfu is also known as HanzhuangHanzhuang or HuafuHuafu ，is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people. The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han, which says, then many came to the Court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han. （后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度）Standard st

3、ylehistorySpecific styleGallerybodyHistory Hanfu has a history of more than three millennia, and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor. From the beginning of its history, Hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk, supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperors c

4、onsort, Leizu. The Shang Dynasty developed the rudiments of Hanfu; it consisted of a yi, and chang, worn with a bixi,. Vivid primary colors and green were used, due to the degree of technology at the time. the Western Zhou Dynasty， the Hanfu became looser, with the introduction of wide sleeves and j

5、ade decorations hung from the sash which served to keep the yi closed. The yi was essentially wrapped over, in a style known as jiaoling youren, or wrapping the right side over before the left In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty， the “deep robe” (shenyi 深衣) appeared a combination of tunic（束腰外衣） and skirt. T

6、he upper and lower halves were cut separately but sewn as a single unit. An additional change was the shaping of the left side of the costume into a corner, fastened on the chest.womenmen Since Song and Yuan, official record used Hanfu to indicate garments Hans wear During Liao dynasty, the emperor

7、of Liao and Han officials wear Hanfu, and Empress and Khitan（契丹） officials wear their national clothing. During Yuan dynasty, when editing History of Liao, the officials especially made an entry for Hanfu The term Hanfu to describe the clothing system of Hans, was not often used within Hans, but was

8、 more often used in other ethnic groups and nations, to distinguish the Hans clothing system and their own clothing systemStandard styleHat and head dressInformal dressSemi-formalFormal dressCourt dressHat and headwear-garment The style of Han Chinese clothing can be summarized as containing garment

9、 elements that are arranged in distinctive and sometimes specific ways. This may be different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China, most notably the Manchu-influenced Chinese clothes, the qipao, which is popularly assumed to be the solely recognizable style of traditional Chi

10、nese garb. A comparison of the two styles can be seen as the following provides Yi (衣): Any open cross-collar garment, and worn by both sexes Pao (袍): Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men in Hanfu Ru (襦): Open cross-collar shirt Shan (衫): Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over

11、 the yi Qun (裙) or chang (裳): Skirt for women and men Ku (褲): Trousers or pantsOn top of the garments, hats (for men) or hairpieces (for women) may be worn. One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads. The typical types of male headwear are called jin

12、 (巾) for soft caps, mao (帽) for a stiff hats and guan (冠) for formal headdress. Officials and academics have a separate set of hats for them, typically the putou (幞頭), the wushamao (烏紗帽), the si-fang pingding jin (四方平定巾; or simply, fangjin: 方巾) and the Zhuangzi jin (莊子巾). A typical hairpiece for wom

13、en is a ji (笄) but there are more elaborate hairpieces.Informal dress Types include tops (yi) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders, with terminologies chang or qun), and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi). (中衣) or zhongdan (中單): in

14、ner garments, mostly white cotton or silk (衫裙): a short coat with a long skirt Ruqun (襦裙): a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt (褲褶): a short coat with trousers Zhiduo/zhishen (直裰/直身): a Ming Dynasty style robe, similar to a zhiju shenyi but with vents at the side and stitched sleeve

15、s (i.e. the sleeve cuff is closed save a small opening for the hand to go through) Daopao/Fusha (道袍/彿裟): Taoist/Buddhist priests full dress ceremonial robes A typical set of Hanfu can consist of two or three layers The first layer of clothing is mostly the zhongyi (中衣) which is typically the inner g

16、arment much like a Western T-shirt and pants. The next layer is the main layer of clothing which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front. Semi-formal dress A piece of Hanfu can be made semi-formal by

17、the addition of the following appropriate items: chang (裳): a pleated skirt bixi(蔽膝): long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt zhaoshan(罩衫): long open fronted coat guan(冠) or any formal hatsFormal dressXuanduan (玄端): a very formal dark robe; equivalent to the Western white tieShenyi (深衣):

18、 a long full body garment (曲裾): diagonal body wrapping (直裾): straight lapelsYuanlingshan (圓領衫), lanshan (襴衫) or panlingpao (盤領袍): closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official or academical dressCourt dressCourt dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the

19、presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermi

20、llion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions.Specific Style Historically, Han Clothing has influenced many of its neighbouring cultural costumes, such as Japanese kimono, yukata,Korean Hanbok and the Vietnamese o t thn. Elements of Hanfu have also bee

21、n influenced by neighbouring cultural costumes, especially by the nomadic peoples to the north, and Central Asian cultures to the west by way of the Silk Road.gallerynotesCostume Costume in Tang Dynastyin Tang Dynasty 1、The brief introduction of costume in Tang dynasty 2、The features of costume in T

22、ang dynasty 3、How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being? Brief Introduction The clothing materials were exquisite（精美的） The structure was natural, graceful and elegant Adornments were splendid Complimented by elaborate hairstyle, ornaments and face makeupThe general features of womens costume

23、in Tang dynasty：1)topless（上空装，袒胸装）2）exposed arm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）large sleeves5）long skirt dressAll of these make it deservethe most typical open clothingstyle. The clothing materials areexquisite, the structure isnatural, graceful and elegant,and adornments are splendid. This is the famous pictu

24、re簪花侍女图showing a lady strolling in the court The lady was wearing a leno-made upper garment, high-waist skirt and without underdress. This was called “topless”（上空装，袒胸装）Mindedness: the open-minded state“绮罗纤缕见肌肤” “蝉翼罗衣白玉人 ” The open clothing style and its softness and lightness make the womens costume

25、 in Tang dynasty so unique and distinctive. The Tang women dressed in sets of garments, and each set a unique image in itself. In general, the Tang womens dressescan beclassified into three categories:（1）Thetraditional ruqun or double layered or padded short jacket that is typical of central ChinaRu

26、qun（襦裙）（襦裙）is worn by women. When its collar likes the letter “y”, we can called it “交领襦裙”.If its collar likes the number“11”,we can called it “对襟襦裙”. When they are classified by its height of the skirt，we can called them “齐腰襦裙”Which waistband is on the waist. Or “齐胸襦裙”Which waistband is above the c

27、hest .（ 2）the hufu, or alien dress that came from the Silk Road;（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girls dressed as boys)， the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities拘谨,礼节. After the reign of Tang Emperor Gaozong, purple was used as the garment color for officials above

28、 the third grade; light red, officials above the fifth grade; dark green. officials above the sixth grade; light green, officials above the seventh grade; dark cyan, officials above the eighth grade; light cyan, officials above the ninth grade; and yellow, ordinary people and those who did not live

29、in the palace. How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being? First,in Chinese history, the Tang Dynasty (AD618-907) was a period of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed.Materialistic abundance and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an u

30、nprecedented opportunity to develop culturally, reaching its height in poetry, painting, music and dance. Second,Based on the progress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques, the variety, quality and quantity of textile materials reached an unprecedented height. The structure is natural, gracefu

31、l and elegant, and adornments are splendid. As an important cultural element, womans costume in various forms in the Tang Dynasty well illustrates the open-mindedness and affluence during that period. Third, The Tang government was tolerant, and often appreciative of religions, art and culture from

32、the outside world.Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty (206BC-220AD) and the Sui Dynasty (581-618), they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regions. Will you accept your girlfriends/ yourselves dressing very o

33、pen?Origin DevelopmentOriginnameThe name cheongsammeaning simply long dressentered the English vocabulary fromthe dialect of Chinas Guangdong Province. In other parts of the country including Beijing, however, it is known as qipao, which has a history behind it.Qing Dynasty(1644), Manchu, Banner Peo

34、ple (qi ren).1645 Shunzhi, “Tifa Yifu” Policy(剃发易服易服)the next 300 years, became adopted by the Chinese. Survived the political turmoil of the 1911 Xinhai Revolution toppled the Qing Dynasty.The history of cheongsamThe details of cheongsam shirt is not exposed(衫不露外衫不露外) the right-side lapellpel of ju

35、nctiondkn decorated with buttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰) clothing plus clothing(衣外加衣衣外加衣) increase waistcoatweskt or jacket(增加坎肩或马褂增加坎肩或马褂) clothes do not get the waist down(衣服上下不取腰身衣服上下不取腰身)Rectangular outline(外轮廓呈长方形外轮廓呈长方形) Horseshoe-shaped sleeve cover hand(马蹄袖盖手马蹄袖盖手) set rolling craft decoration(镶

36、滚工艺装饰镶滚工艺装饰)flowerpot shoes(花盆鞋花盆鞋) Frog盘扣盘扣Openings衩Embroiderymbrdr 刺绣刺绣Front of a garment襟Development From 1914 to 1949From 1914 to 1949Development From 1914 to 1949From 1914 to 19491930194019301940，Peak periodPeak period western-style cutting method standard clothing of the modern Chinese women19

37、20s1920s19301930ss 1940s1940s Qipao (Chipau) is one of the most typical, traditional costumes for Chinese women. Also known as cheongsam, it is like a wonderful flower in the Chinese colorful fashion scene because of its particular charm. It can display Chinese womens modesty, softness and beauty. T

38、oday, with the development of the market economy in China, Qipao has been the attention of the whole world,and becomes the representative of Chinese beauty.Soong Qinglingthe wife of Sun Yat-sen, a great woman in ChinaSoong Mayling She owns the most number of qipao all over the world.As a formal cost

39、umes which represent our national culture frequently appeares in the iInternational occasions.First ladys style China is a historical country with splendid civilizations, in which the Chinese costume is an important part. From the change of Chinese costumes, we can see the political change, economic development and customs evolvement through the long history. Lets fellow the historys step, compose a new chapter for the Chinese costume culture!Thanks for your attention!