纺织纤维的分类Textile Fiber Classification精选PPT.ppt

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1、关于纺织纤维的分类Textile Fiber Classification第1页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三纺织纤维(textile fiber)纺织纤维纺织纤维 纤维长度达到数十毫米以上，具有一定的强度、一定的可挠曲性和相互纠缠抱合性能和其他服用性能而可以生产纺织制品（如纱线、绳带、机织物、针织物）的，叫纺织纤维纺织纤维。第2页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三纤维可纺纱的条件：1 必须具有一定的细度,一定的长度,一定的长细比例及均匀度;2 必须具有一定的强力,变形能力,弹性,耐磨性,刚柔性,抱合性和摩擦力;如金属丝，藕丝 3 应具有一定的吸湿性、导电性和热学性质；如金属丝 4 应具有一定的化学稳

2、定性和良好的染色性能；特种纤维用纺织纤维还有特别的要求，如轮胎用帘子线，要耐疲劳；帐篷布要耐日晒；宇航服要耐高温；降落伞要强力高。第3页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三纺织纤维的分类天然纤维1 天然纤维素纤维（natural cellulose fiber）种子纤维（seed hairs）韧皮纤维(bast fibers)叶子纤维(leaf fibers)果壳纤维(nut husk fibers)第4页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 Since primitive times,human beings Since primitive times,human beings began to use n

3、atural fiber clothing.began to use natural fiber clothing.Initially,humans rely on animal skins and Initially,humans rely on animal skins and fur of body,and later learned to weave fur of body,and later learned to weave crude textiles.They plant the vines of crude textiles.They plant the vines of fl

4、exible fibers woven into the original flexible fibers woven into the original rough cloth.rough cloth.第5页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 It records the history of Chinese science and It records the history of Chinese science and technology,China has emerged in the 4000-5000 technology,China has emerged in the 4000-5

5、000 years ago,silk and linen fabrics,3000 years ago years ago,silk and linen fabrics,3000 years ago felt,cotton fabric 2000 years ago.felt,cotton fabric 2000 years ago.第6页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 She has mastered all the operating processes She has mastered all the operating processes such as tripping cottons

6、eedsuch as tripping cottonseed,elastic cotton,elastic cotton,volume slivervolume sliver ,spinning cotton yarn,woven,spinning cotton yarn,woven cottoncotton.Huang Daopo,Song to the Yuan Dynasty famous Huang Daopo,Song to the Yuan Dynasty famous textile expert ,textile expert ,第7页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三种子纤维第8页

7、，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Cotton fibers are the seeds of plant fiber ,which is the most important textile fiber that human has used for a long history.棉纤维属于植物纤维中的种子纤维，是人类使用历史较长的重要纺织纤维。第9页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 China,India,Egypt,Peru,Brazil,the United States are the worlds major cotton producing area.Yellow River,Yangtz

8、e River,south,northwest,northeast are five major cotton-producing regions of China.中国、印度、埃及、秘鲁、巴西、美国等为世界主要棉纤维产地。黄河流域、长江流域、华南、西北、东北为我国五大产棉区。第10页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Fiber Properties:Cotton fibers are composed of an outer(skin)and a primary wall,a secondary wall,and a century core,or lumen.棉纤维为多层状带中腔结构。第11页，

9、讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Immature fibers exhibit thin wall structures and a large lumen,whereas mature fibers have thick walls and a small lumen that may not be continuous,because the wall close the lumen in some sections.未成熟纤维显示薄壁结构和一个大的中腔，相反，成熟纤维则有厚的细胞壁和一个小的中腔，且没有连续，因为细胞壁在某一部分和中腔接近。第12页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Cotton fi

10、bers are thin long and soft,with a high moisture regain.棉纤维细长柔软，吸湿性好。Cotton fiber is a moisture and strong porous material.The internal molecular arrangement is not regular,with a large number of hydrophilic molecular structure inside.绵纤维是多孔性物质，内部分子排列很不规则，且分子中含有大量的亲水结构。因此，在正常的情况下，纤维可向周围的大气中吸收水分，其含水率

11、为8-10%。当人们穿棉织物时，会感到柔软而不僵硬第13页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 -As the warm cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat and electricity,thermal conductivity is very low,because of its porous nature of cotton fibers,the advantages of high flexibility,can accumulate large amounts of air between the fibers,the air is hot an

12、d electric the bad conductor,so cotton fiber products have good moisture retention,use cotton products make people feel warm.保暖性-由于棉纤维是热和电的不良导体，热传导系数极低，又因棉纤维本身具有多孔性，弹性高优点，纤维之间能积存大量空气，空气又是热和电的不良导体，所以，纯棉纤维制品具有良好的保湿性，使用纯棉制品使人感觉到温暖。第14页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三第15页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 棉纤维缺点Easy to fold-less flexible cot

13、ton fiber.易皱-棉纤维弹性较差。Large shrinkage-there is a strong absorbent cotton fiber,when it absorbs moisture so that after the expansion of cotton fiber,cotton yarn caused by reduced deformation 缩水率大-棉纤维有很强的吸水性，当其吸收水份后令棉纤维膨胀，引致棉纱缩短变形。第16页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三-Mildew in damp conditions,such as the case of bacteri

14、a or fungi,cotton fibers will be broken down into nutrients-they like glucose,so that the fabric moldy 霉变-在潮湿的状态下，如遇细菌或真菌，棉纤维会分解成它们喜欢的营养物质-葡萄糖，使面料发霉变质。Despite the poor-Moisture absorption and strong,but not dry 排湿性差-尽管吸湿力强，但不易干燥。第17页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 Cotton fiber,such as prolonged exposure to daylight,

15、strong reduction will be hard-brittle fibers,such as the case of oxidant,with oxidizing bleach or dye,but also will decrease fiber strength,fiber brittle hair hard.棉纤维如长时间与日光接触，强力降低，纤维会硬发脆，如遇氧化剂、漂白粉或具有氧化性的染料，也会使纤维强力下降，纤维发脆发硬。第18页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 Colored cotton With the development of agricultural tech

16、nology,the natural color of cotton fiber has emerged.第19页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三韧皮纤维（bast fibers）第20页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三The Pharaoh of Egypt s mummies are wrapped in linen bandages.第21页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三The bast fiber consist of flax,ramie,jute,hemp.Flax is a bast fiber-a woody（木质的）fiber obtained from the phloem（韧皮部）

17、of plants.It derives from the stalk（茎）or stem of Linum suitatssimum（亚麻属（亚麻属植物）植物）.The use of linen in Egypt between 3000and 2500B.C.has been verified.第22页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Physical Properties Flax fiber is not so fine as cotton,is longer than cotton.The natural color of flax varies from light ivory to g

18、ray.While,the color of cotton fibers vary from almost pure white to a dirty gray.第23页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三The nature of flax Flax is a strong fiber.Fabrics of flax are durable and easy to maintain because of the fiber strength.When wet,the fiber is about 20 percent stronger than when dry.The amount of elon

19、gation that flax will undergo before breaking is very small.Linen fabrics are prone to crease and wrinkle badly.They are somewhat stiff and posses little resiliency.It is these characteristics,it can be made into sacks and hemp rope,etc.第24页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 Flax has low pliability or flexibility,which

20、 may result in increased serviceability.Flax has a standard moisture regain of about 12 percent.The saturation regain is comparable to that other cellulosic fibers(纤维素纤维).Flax has outstanding wicking properties（芯吸性）,which makes it possible to make dress and socks.第25页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Flax fibers do not

21、 shrink or stretch to any marked degree.However,as in the case of cotton,yarns and fabrics are subject to some relaxation shrinkage.Ironing linen fabrics while damp will help stretch them back to their original size.第26页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三The strength of flax fibers makes it possible to manufacture a wid

22、e variety of yarns,from very fine to very heavy,which can be used to make a wide variety of fabrics,from sheer and loose to heavy and compact.第27页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三There is a gradual loss of strength when linen fabrics are exposed to sunlight,but this is not serious.consequently,flax makes a good choice

23、 for curtain.第28页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Dry linen has excellent resistance to mildew（霉菌）,but if the fabric is moist or stored in a humid atmosphere,mildew will grow rapidly and damage the fiber,so linen fabric should be placed in a dry environment.第29页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三The nature resistance of flax to chemicals,

24、including detergents,bleaches,other laundry aids,and dry-cleaning solvents,provides a fabric that is easily maintained.Further,these properties,plus resistance to sunlight,inherent fiber strength,and resistance to aging,result in fabrics with a long life.第30页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 In addition to the flax pl

25、ant there are a lot of hemp plant is produced in life and industry,for example in Apocynum.Its leaves can be used to make tea,have lower blood pressure,reducing blood lipid and preventing cold effects.Its bark（树皮）is a natural material,can use the apocynum fiber finishing textile and clothing has goo

26、d air permeability（透气性）,hygroscopicity（吸湿性）strong,soft,antibacterial,the winter heat and summer cold characteristics.Therefore apocynum fiber can advanced material,fishing line,leather line,raincoats and senior paper.Apocynum（罗布麻属）第31页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三天然蛋白质纤维(natural protein fiber)毛纤维wool fiber 羊毛wool

27、兔毛rabbit hair 狗绒boss 一条狗可抓克绒，与羊相当，具有肉用价值，天津工大开发发纤维hair fiber 羊绒cashmere(开司米)仿羊绒cash merelike 羊驼Alpaca(阿尔巴卡)，产于秘鲁 马海毛Mohair骆驼毛牦牛毛 以上纤维是最贴近皮肤的一层细薄绒毛,因其多生长在高寒地带,故保暖性极佳,其产量低,所以价格昂贵,又称“软黄金”或“纤维钻石”。第32页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三丝纤维silk 腺体分泌物（section）家蚕丝 cultivated silk 柞蚕丝 wild silk3矿物纤维（mineral fiber）从纤维状结构的矿石岩石中获得的

28、纤维 石棉askestes 第33页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三(二)化学纤维(man-made fiber）)1再生纤维（regenerated fiber）采用天然聚合物为原料，经过化学方法制成的与 原聚 合物在化学组成上基本相同的化学纤维，称再生纤维。再生纤维素纤维 粘胶纤维 viscose/rayon 天丝 tencel/LYOCELL/莫代尔纤维 铜氨纤维 cuprammonium fiber再生蛋白质纤维 大豆纤维 奶酪纤维 甲壳素纤维 海藻酸钠纤维第34页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三2 合成纤维(synthetic fiber)由天然小分子化合物经人工合成有机聚合物后，再溶解或熔

29、融成液体后抽拔成纤维。涤纶 polyester锦纶 polyamide fiber/nylon腈纶 acrylic fiber 第35页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 无机纤维（inorganic fiber）,如玻璃纤维(glass fiber)新型纤维 Thurmax 藕形纤维藕形纤维：弹性极佳，又称中空纤维，如七孔被，九孔被 Coolmax 凉爽纤维凉爽纤维：纤维中有槽子，毛细血管现象，导汗性极强。ES纤维纤维：丙纶和涤纶两者，里面是涤纶，熔点较高（160 ），外面是丙纶，熔点较低（110 ）。制成无纺布。放在稍高于110 的温度上烤，丙纶化掉成网状，这种纤维具有弹性。芳纶芳纶：防弹衣 防

30、辐射 防切割第36页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 （三）三）天然纤维和化学纤维的异同第37页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 For centuries humankind For centuries humankind has relied upon various plants has relied upon various plants and animals to provide the and animals to provide the raw materials for fabrics and raw materials for fabrics and clothing.clothi

31、ng.However,in the last However,in the last century scientists have turned century scientists have turned to chemistry and technology to chemistry and technology to create and enhance many of to create and enhance many of the fabrics we now take for the fabrics we now take for granted.granted.第38页，讲稿

32、共74张，创作于星期三 In1955,manufacturers In1955,manufacturers began to produce a new began to produce a new type of rayonhigh-type of rayonhigh-wet-modulus(HWM)wet-modulus(HWM)rayonwhich was rayonwhich was somewhat stronger and somewhat stronger and which could be used which could be used successfully in sh

33、eets,successfully in sheets,towels,and apparel.towels,and apparel.第39页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 Today rayon is one of the most widely used fabrics in our Today rayon is one of the most widely used fabrics in our society.It is made in countries around the world.It can be society.It is made in countries around t

34、he world.It can be blended with natural or man-made fabrics,treated with blended with natural or man-made fabrics,treated with enhancements,and even engineered to perform a variety of enhancements,and even engineered to perform a variety of functionsfunctions.第40页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三About fibers propertie

35、s第41页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 ASTMASTM defines moisture regain as“the moisture in a material determined under prescribed conditions and expressed as a percentage of the weight of the moisture-free specimen.Moisture regainMoisture regain or absorbencyabsorbency depends on the fiber morphology or molecular arra

36、ngement and the pore size in the outer layer of fiber skin.conditioned weight-dry weightPercentage regain=x100 dry weight第42页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Fible t=20 humidity=aa=65%a=95%a=100%cotton7-812-1423-27 ramie 7-8 hemp 10-138-22wool15-17 26-2733-36silk8-919-2236-39rayon13-1529-3535-45nylon3.5-5 8-9 10-13pol

37、yester0.4-0.50.6-0.71.0-1.1glass0 0-0.3 第43页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三This table tells us that usually the moisture regain of natural fibers is higher higher thanthan the chemical fibers.However,Rayon Rayon is an exception,its moisture regain is same as the natural fibers第44页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三This is glass fiberThi

38、s is glass fiber第45页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三How about the thermal behaviorHow about the thermal behavior ;such as refractory;such as refractory ,specific,specific heat,heat,heat conductionheat conductionThermodynamic three-state of fiber material:glass high-elastic viscous state state flow state Tg Tt tempera

39、ture第46页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Here we adopted the following table for the case of fiber Here we adopted the following table for the case of fiber strength in the sunstrength in the sunMaterial cotton wool hemp layon PAN silk nylon PETSunlight 940 1120 1110 900 900 200 200 600Time 50 50 50 50 16-25 50 36 60P

40、ANwoolhempcottonlayon PETnylonsilkStrengthLoss第47页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三 This table shows the heat resistance of natural fiber and chemical fiber is more or less same,but the heat resistance of chemical fibers is slightly lower than the natural fibers.In the natural fiber,cellulose fiber better than protein

41、 fibers.第48页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三The expansion of fiber performance in the waterFiber typesSd（）Sl（）Sa（）Sv（）cotton203040424244silk16.318.71.31.6193032wool151725263641Viscose rayon25523.74.85011474127Copper ammonia fiber325326566268107Acetate fiber9140.10.368第49页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三As is vividly indicated in the a

42、bove chart,As is vividly indicated in the above chart,Moisture after the fiber volume expansion.Moisture after the fiber volume expansion.The lateral expansion of the fiber is large The lateral expansion of the fiber is large while the longitudinal expansion of the fiber while the longitudinal expan

43、sion of the fiber is small.is small.What is more,the man-made fibers and What is more,the man-made fibers and the natural fibers are all different,they all the natural fibers are all different,they all do not have the same law.do not have the same law.第50页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Common varieties of fiber leng

44、thCommon varieties of fiber lengthFiber varietiesFiber varietiesLengthLengthFiber varietiesFiber varietiesLengthLengthUpland25 31Manila hemp3 20Sea Island cotton33 46Hemp5 55Fine wool40 100The long fiber55 65Semi-fine wool70 300Wool fiber76 120Cashmere22 36Cotton fiber38 41mohair45 70ramie20 200Silk

45、60 1300jute1.5 5flax12 24第51页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三We can also find the difference or sameness between We can also find the difference or sameness between natural fibers and chemical from natural fibers and chemical from identificationidentification Most natural fiber and chemical fiber are flammableBlack f

46、loc objects have left after natural fiber burned，but the black hard object is left for chemical fiberNatural fibers do not change near the fire source But chemical fiber close to the fire to meltWhen natural fiber burned,you will smell a smell like burning paper or burning feather;but so many kinds

47、of smell have existed for chemical fiber.第52页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三Fiber cross section Fiber cross section shape shape with fiber kinds and with fiber kinds and different.different.Natural fiber has its own form.Natural fiber has its own form.Chemical fiber accChemical fiber accor ording to the will of the

48、ding to the will of the people can be shaped design silk spray holes to people can be shaped design silk spray holes to get various special-shaped cross-section of fiber.get various special-shaped cross-section of fiber.第53页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三桑蚕丝横截面山羊绒横截面 第54页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三(三)天然纺织纤维应用现状与前景分析 第55页，讲稿共74张，

49、创作于星期三一、全球天然纺织纤维的发展图1 全球天然纺织纤维的发展注：注：1800年年 160.0 万吨万吨 2006年年 2709万吨万吨第56页，讲稿共74张，创作于星期三年份天然纤维合计*棉纤维绵羊毛纤维生丝1800160.0122.037.70.301850220.0173.046.530.471890305.10230.1473.771.191900392.09316.274.231.661910503.77421.080.522.161920547.05462.982.042.111930698.60592.7100.215.091940808.54697.1111.445.981

50、950771.93664.7105.351.8819601200.211011.3145.813.1019701342.441178.2160.154.0919801590.911425.4160.505.6119902073.711871.4195.46.9120002059.631917.0132.89.8320012209.122070.5127.511.1220022068.631931.9126.310.4320032194.172060.6122.011.5720042754.662620.0122.312.3620052577.452439.4122.815.2520062709