各种卡波(carbomer)的流变特性及应用教学文案.ppt

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1、各种卡波(carbomer)的流变特性及应用 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved主旨及内容主旨主旨开发一种能帮助我们的客户在护肤配方设计中选择合适的卡开发一种能帮助我们的客户在护肤配方设计中选择合适的卡波聚合物的工具波聚合物的工具了解不同的卡波聚合物在配方中及涂抹在皮肤上的性能表现了解不同的卡波聚合物在配方中及涂抹在皮肤上的性能表现的基本区别的基本区别 内容内容凝胶及乳液配方条件下的数据总结包括：凝胶及乳液配方条件下的数据总结包括：基本物理性能（粘度，屈服值，透明度），基本的流变基本物理性能（粘度，屈服值，透明度），基本的流变性能

2、性能 ，感官性能评估，感官性能评估流变性能和感官表现的联系流变性能和感官表现的联系应用配方举例应用配方举例2 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved离子对屈服值的影响U10=Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20=Car

3、bopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21=Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940=Carbopol 940 polymer980=Carbopol 980 polymer934=Carbopol 934 polymer当离子存在或增加时，耐离子的卡波聚合物能提供相当离子存在或增加时，耐离子的卡波聚合物能提供相当离子存在或增加时，耐离子的卡波聚合物能提供相当离子存在或增加时，耐离子的卡波聚合物能提供相对更高的屈服值，如：对更高的屈服值，如：对更高的屈服值，如：对更高的屈服值，如：Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerCarbopol Ultrez 2

4、0 polymer。6 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved离子对透明度的影响离子对透明度的影响很小。离子对透明度的影响很小。离子对透明度的影响很小。离子对透明度的影响很小。U10=Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20=Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21=Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940=Carbopol 940 polymer980=Carbopol 980 polymer934=Carbopol 934 polymer7 The Lubrizol Corpo

5、ration 2008,all rights reserved凝胶配方体系中的物理特性总结Carbopol Ultrez 20 聚合物表现出最好的耐离子性聚合物表现出最好的耐离子性 较高的粘度较高的屈服值优异的透明度在离子浓度较低时，在离子浓度较低时，Carbopol 934和和980聚合物表现出较好聚合物表现出较好的耐离子性，其保持粘度和屈服值的能力相对较高的耐离子性，其保持粘度和屈服值的能力相对较高 Carbopol980聚合物大于80%透过率的透明度Carbopol934的透明度相对较低Carbopol Ultrez 10,Ultrez 21 和和940聚合物在凝胶配方体系聚合物在凝胶配

6、方体系里有中等的耐离子性里有中等的耐离子性8 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved凝胶体系中聚合物流变性能总结当体系含有当体系含有0.05%的盐时，在高或低的剪切速率下，卡波的盐时，在高或低的剪切速率下，卡波聚合物聚合物 表现出不同的流变行为：含耐离子性较强的聚合物表现出不同的流变行为：含耐离子性较强的聚合物的凝胶体系拥有更高的抵抗形变的能力。的凝胶体系拥有更高的抵抗形变的能力。Carbopol Ultrez 20 聚合物显示了相对较硬的弹性结构聚合物显示了相对较硬的弹性结构无论剪切速率的高低，它都表现出较慢的形变反应。无论剪切速率

7、的高低，它都表现出较慢的形变反应。Carbopol Ultrez 10和和Carbopol Ultrez 21聚合物表现为相对较低的粘聚合物表现为相对较低的粘度度无论剪切速率的高低，两者都对剪切表现为较高的形变。无论剪切速率的高低，两者都对剪切表现为较高的形变。Carbopol 980和和934聚合物在聚合物在应力的动态振荡下表现出了弹性应力的动态振荡下表现出了弹性相对相对Carbopol Ultrez 10和和21聚合物而言，它们拥有更长的弹性聚合物而言，它们拥有更长的弹性模量保持时间。模量保持时间。12 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights re

8、served肤感评估 专家小组排序法每个聚合物的皮肤感觉不尽相同。每个聚合物的皮肤感觉不尽相同。每个聚合物的皮肤感觉不尽相同。每个聚合物的皮肤感觉不尽相同。HSD95*有显著不同*13 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved凝胶配方的肤感分布曲线最初涂抹最初涂抹涂后肤感涂后肤感HighLowIntensity(AverageRank)14 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved卡波聚合物的凝胶肤感坐标图数据由数据由专家小组排序法而来专家小组排序法而来Light Heavy W

9、et Watery CreamyQuick Break Long Playtime Ultrez 10 Ultrez 21 980 Ultrez 20Ultrez 10 Ultrez 21 980 Ultrez 20CarbopolCarbopol Polymers PolymersUltrez10=CarbopolUltrez10polymerUltrez21=CarbopolUltrez21polymer980=Carbopol980polymerUltrez20=CarbopolUltrez20polymer15 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rig

10、hts reserved凝胶配方的感官评估总结CarbopolUltrez20聚合物提供奢华、厚稠的肤感，适用于感聚合物提供奢华、厚稠的肤感，适用于感觉丰厚、富有弹性，非水感的凝胶配方。觉丰厚、富有弹性，非水感的凝胶配方。CarbopolUltrez10和和 and and CarbopolUltrez21聚合物在最初的涂聚合物在最初的涂抹时能提供十分清新的肤感，适用于清爽型配方。抹时能提供十分清新的肤感，适用于清爽型配方。Carbopol980聚合物的肤感介于上述两者之间，在最初涂抹聚合物的肤感介于上述两者之间，在最初涂抹时拥有轻微的时拥有轻微的弹性并且肤感滑爽。适用于中等或偏向感觉弹性并且

11、肤感滑爽。适用于中等或偏向感觉丰厚的配方，同时用后不粘腻。丰厚的配方，同时用后不粘腻。16 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved乳液体系的实验乳液体系的实验 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved乳液配方的比较Part Trade NameINCI%weightACarbopolUltrez10polymerCarbomer0.40CarbopolUltrez20polymerAcrylatesC10-C30AlkylAcrylateCrosspolymer0.75Carb

12、opolUltrez21polymerAcrylatesC10-C30AlkylAcrylateCrosspolymer0.38Carbopol940polymerCarbomer0.30Carbopol980polymerCarbomer0.40Carbopol934polymerCarbomer0.50DeionizedWaterQ.S.to100BC1215AlkylBenzoateC12-15AlkylBenzoate10.0010.0010.0010.0010.0010.00CremophorA6Ceteareth-6andStearylAlcohol1.801.801.801.80

13、1.801.80CremophorA25Ceteareth-251.201.201.201.201.201.20CTEA(99%)TriethanolamineQStopH=6.06.5DGlydantPlusLiquidDMDMHydantoin(&)IodopropynylButylcarbamate0.400.400.400.400.400.4018 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved离子对粘度和屈服值的影响与传统的卡波聚合物相比，与传统的卡波聚合物相比，与传统的卡波聚合物相比，与传统的卡波聚合物相比，Carbopol Ul

14、trez 20聚合物提供了更好的聚合物提供了更好的聚合物提供了更好的聚合物提供了更好的耐离子性能。耐离子性能。耐离子性能。耐离子性能。U10=Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20=Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21=Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940=Carbopol 940 polymer980=Carbopol 980 polymer934=Carbopol 934 polymer19 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved肤感评估 专家小组打分法HSD95*2

15、2 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved乳液配方的肤感分布曲线最初涂抹最初涂抹涂后肤感涂后肤感HighLowIntensity(AverageRating)23 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved卡波聚合物的乳液肤感坐标图Light Heavy Wet Watery CreamyQuick Break Long Playtime Ultrez 10 Ultrez 21 980 Ultrez 20Carbopol PolymersUltrez10=CarbopolUltr

16、ez10polymerUltrez21=CarbopolUltrez21polymer980=Carbopol980polymerUltrez20=CarbopolUltrez20polymerLight HeavyLow residual feel High residual feel Non-lingering afterfeel Lingering afterfeelUltrez 10 980 Ultrez 21 Ultrez 20Carbopol Polymers最初至中期涂抹阶段最初至中期涂抹阶段涂抹中期到涂后肤感阶段涂抹中期到涂后肤感阶段数据由专家小组打分法而来数据由专家小组打分法

17、而来24 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved乳液配方的感官评估总结在相对复杂的乳液体系中，卡波聚合物仍旧能够提供不同在相对复杂的乳液体系中，卡波聚合物仍旧能够提供不同的肤感影响的肤感影响CarbopolUltrez20聚合物聚合物提供奢华、丰厚的涂抹感，拥提供奢华、丰厚的涂抹感，拥有较重的涂后肤感。有较重的涂后肤感。CarbopolUltrez21聚合物聚合物提供轻质溶化般的涂抹感，以提供轻质溶化般的涂抹感，以及中等到清爽的涂后肤感。及中等到清爽的涂后肤感。CarbopolUltrez10聚合物聚合物提供清新、易抹开的涂抹感，提供

18、清新、易抹开的涂抹感，以及清爽的涂后肤感。以及清爽的涂后肤感。Carbopol980聚合物聚合物提供轻质、滋润的涂抹感，以及丝提供轻质、滋润的涂抹感，以及丝滑的涂后肤感。滑的涂后肤感。25 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved应用配方举例应用配方举例 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved凝胶配方例举凝胶配方例举 Refreshing Skin Hydrator and Hydrating Sleep-On Facial SerumRefreshing Skin Hydra

19、tor and Hydrating Sleep-On Facial Serum项目概述项目概述:开发两个含有植物活性及美白成分的配方，其市场宣称如下：清爽的补水乳液，能很快的涂抹开，白天使用，作为护肤乳液或爽肤水。护肤乳液精华素，涂抹时间较长，最初的涂抹感为中等偏向较为丰富的不粘腻的感觉。作为晚霜使用，提供修复及滋养的护肤作用。要求条件要求条件:两个配方含有等量的传统中药成分。采用等量的卡波聚合物成分。产品的目标规格：pH 5.5粘度 12,00018,000 mPaS33 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reservedRefreshing

20、Skin Hydrator F0078(AP)Refreshing Skin Hydrator F0078(AP)INCI NameINCI NameTrade NameTrade NameFunctionFunction%Weight%WeightSpecificationSpecificationA1.DeionizedwaterDiluent89.41pH5.25-5.752.DisodiumEDTAChelatingAgent0.02Viscosity(mPas)S#612,000-18,0003CarbomerCarbopol Ultrez 10 PolymerRheologyMod

21、ifier0.35YieldValue(dyn/cm2)500-7004.Methylgluceth-20Glucam E-20 humectantHumectant1.00StabilityPassed(45C/25C/5freeze-thawcycles)B5.NeopentylglycoldiethylhexanoateSchercemol NGDO esterEmollient3.006.Dimethicone(and)cetearyldimethiconecrosspolymer(VelvesilDM)VelvesilDMFilmFormer0.307.Methylglucosese

22、squistearateGlucate SS emulsifierEmulsifier0.258.PEG-20methylglucosesesquistearateGlucamate SSE-20 emulsifierEmulsifier0.759.BHTAntioxidant0.02C10.Sodiumhydroxide(18%)Neutralizer0.40*D11.Glycyrrhizaglabra(licorice)rootextract,propyleneglycol,waterExtraponeLicoriceRoot607646Botanical:SkinBrightener0.

23、4012.Chrysanthemumindicumflowerextract,propyleneglycol,waterExtraponeWildChrysanthemumBotanical:Calming0.3013.Lonicerajaponica(honeysuckle)flowerextract,propyleneglycol,waterExtraponeHoneysuckleBotanical:Soothing0.3014.DeionizedwaterDiluent3.00E15Phenoxyehthanol,methy-,Ethyl-,Butyl-,Propyl-,(and)Iso

24、butylparabenPhenonipPreservative0.5034 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reservedHydrating Nighttime Facial Serum F-0082(AP)Hydrating Nighttime Facial Serum F-0082(AP)INCI NameINCI NameTrade NameTrade NameFunctionFunction%Weight%WeightSpecificationSpecificationA1.DeionizedwaterDiluent89.41pH5

25、.25-5.752.DisodiumEDTAChelatingAgent0.02Viscosity(mPas)S#614,000-18,0003Acrylates/C10-30alkylacrylatecrosspolymerCarbopol Ultrez 20 PolymerRheologyModifier0.35YieldValue(dyn/cm2)720-9004.Methylgluceth-20Glucam E-20 humectantHumectant1.00StabilityPassed(45C/25C/5freeze-thawcycles)B5.Neopentylglycoldi

26、ethylhexanoateSchercemol NGDO esterEmollient3.006.Dimethicone(and)cetearyldimethiconecrosspolymer(VelvesilDM)VelvesilDMFilmFormer0.307.MethylglucosesesquistearateGlucate SS emulsifierEmulsifier0.258.PEG-20methylglucosesesquistearateGlucamate SSE-20 emulsifierEmulsifier0.759.BHTAntioxidant0.02C10.Sod

27、iumhydroxide(18%)Neutralizer0.40*D11.Glycyrrhizaglabra(licorice)rootextract,propyleneglycol,waterExtraponeLicoriceRootExtractBotanical:SkinBrightener0.4012.Chrysanthemumindicumflowerextract,propyleneglycol,waterExtraponeWildChrysanthemumBotanical:Calming0.3013.Lonicerajaponica(honeysuckle)flowerextr

28、act,propyleneglycol,waterExtraponeHoneysuckleBotanical:Soothing0.3014.DeionizedwaterDiluent3.00E15Phenoxyethanol,methy-,Ethyl-,Butyl-,Propyl-,(and)Isobutylparaben(Phenonip)PhenonipPreservative0.5035 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reserved0.10001.00010.00100.01000shear rate(1/s)0.10001.0001

29、0.00100.01000viscosity(Pas)Refreshing skin hydrator Hydrating sleep-on serum两个凝胶配方的流变曲线比较 霜肤水含Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer剪切变稀，易涂抹，粘度较低，感觉更为清新。精华素含CarbopolUltrez20polymer较高的粘度，剪切变稀，厚稠的肤感Slight increase in viscosityfurther signifies increase in resistance(richness)With 0.05 wt%NaCl36 The Lubrizol Corpo

30、ration 2008,all rights reservedAcknowledgmentAcknowledgmentlDan HasmanlLiu XinlChristina HelKwe Sung TjolJeff CareylGary YaolRain Shen37 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reservedTrademarks Allusion is a trademark of Antaria Ltd.Arlacel and Brij are trademarks of Croda Inc.Carbopol,and Noveon

31、 are registered trademarks of The Lubrizol Corporation.Glucam,Glucate,Glucamate,Promulgen,and Schercemol are trademarks of The Lubrizol Corporation.Cremophor is registered trademark of BASF Corporation.Dow Corning is a registered trademark of Dow Corning Corporation.Extrapone is a registered tradema

32、rk of Symrise CompanyGlydant Plus is a registered trademark of Lonza Group Ltd.Keltrol is a registered trademark of Huber CompanyLiposphere is a trademark of Lipo Technologies Inc.Merquat is a registered trademark of Nalco CompanyNaturechem is a registered trademark of Vertellus Performance Inc.Phen

33、onip is a registered trademark of Clariant CompanyTimiron is a registered trademark of Merck KGaA.38 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,all rights reservedDisclaimerThe information contained herein is believed to be reliable,but no representations,guarantees or warranties of any kind are made as to its a

34、ccuracy,suitability for particular applications or the results to be obtained.The information often is based on laboratory work with small-scale equipment and does not necessarily indicate end product performance or reproducibility.Formulations presented may not have been tested for stability and sh

35、ould be used only as a suggested starting point.Because of the variations in methods,conditions and equipment used commercially in processing these materials,no warranties or guarantees are made as to the suitability of the products for the applications disclosed.Full-scale testing and end product p

36、erformance are the responsibility of the user.Lubrizol Advanced Materials,Inc.shall not be liable for and the customer assumes all risk and liability for any use or handling of any material beyond Lubrizol Advanced Materials,Inc.s direct control.The SELLER MAKES NO WARRANTIES,EXPRESS OR IMPLIED,INCL

37、UDING,BUT NOT LIMITED TO,THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.Nothing contained herein is to be considered as permission,recommendation,nor as an inducement to practice any patented invention without permission of the patent owner.Copyright 2008 Lubrizol Advanced Materials 39结束语结束语谢谢大家聆听！谢谢大家聆听！40