中国传统服饰(英文).ppt

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1、Chinese Traditional CostumeChinese Traditional CostumeHan DynastySui and Tang dynastiesSong and Yuan dynastiesMing and Qing Dynastiesthe Republic of China Modern societyHanfuHanfu is known as Hanzhuang,is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people.The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han,whi

2、ch says,then many came to the court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han.(后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度)Yi(衣)：Any open cross-collar garment,and worn by both sexes.Pao(袍)：Any closed full-body garment,worn only by men.Ru(襦)：Open cross-collar shirt.Shan(衫):Open cross-collar shirt or jacket

3、that is worn over the yi.Qun(裙)or chang(裳)：Skirt for women and men.Ku(裤)：Trousers or pants.The structureInformal dressTypes include tops(yi)and bottoms(divided further into pants and skirts for both genders),and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times)Semi-formal dresschang(裳

4、):a pleated skirt bixi(蔽膝)：long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt.zhaoshan(罩衫)：long open fronted coatFormal dressXuanduan(玄端)：a very formal dark robe,equivalent to the Western white tieShenyi(深衣)：a long full -body garmentCurving-front robe(曲裾):diagonal body wrappingPanlingpao(盤领袍):close

5、d,round-collared robe;mostly used for official dressCostume in Tang DynastyCostume in Tang DynastypThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangDynastypThefeaturesofcostumeinTangDynastypHowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?ContentsTang DynastyFrom the Sui to the Tang,the ancient Chinese clothing developed

6、 to its peak.The political stability,economic development,manufacturing and textile technology,and the frequent foreign relations contributed to the development of clothing.The clothing in this period had formed the most fantastic chapter in the clothing history.Features Thegeneralfeaturesofwomensco

7、stumeinTangdynasty:topless(上空装，袒胸装）exposedarmobliquecollarlargesleeveslongskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.Features ThisisthepictureBeautiesWearingFlowersshowingaladystr

8、ollinginthecourt.Theladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thisiscalled“topless”The Tang women dressed in sets of garments,and each set a unique in itself.Features In general,the Tang womens dresses can be classified into three categories:The traditional ruqun(襦裙)or

9、 double layered or padded short jacket that is typical of central China.Features The hufu,or alien dress that came from the Silk RoadCross-Dressing(namely,girls dressed as boys),the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalitiesFeatures How does costume in Tang Dynas

10、ty come into being?Frist,in Chinese history,the Tang Dynasty was a period of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed.Materialistic abundance and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an unprecedented opportunity to develop culturally,reaching its

11、 height in poetry,painting,music and dance.Second,based on the progress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques,the variety quality and quantity of texitle materials reached an unprecedented height.How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?T

12、hird,the Tang govement was tolerant,and often appreciative of religions,art and culture from the outside world.Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and Sui Dynasty,they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regio

13、ns.Thank you for your listening!Song Dynastyong DynastyCostumeofSongDynasty(960-1279)wassimpleandnatural,reflectingthedevelopmenttendencyoftheera.ThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtobeconservative,impressingpeoplewithsimple,pureandelegantfeelings.Themaincharacteristicsofwomensclothingarenarrow,lon

14、g,thin.唐代文化是一种开放的类型，但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型，两者有很大的差异，宋代在政治上虽然开放民主，但由于“程朱理学”的思想禁锢，和对外政策的妥协退让，服饰文化不再艳丽奢华，而是简洁质朴。宋代强调“存天理，灭人欲”的观念，使人的个体对立性全部仰制了，对妇女的约束也推到了极点，所以宋代女装拘谨、保守，色彩淡雅恬静，宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚，还是一般的百姓，都爱穿着直领,对襟的褙子，因为既舒适得体，又显得典雅大方。Song DynastySong DynastyTheclothingstyleofSongDynastyischaracterizedbyitselegance.Men

15、usuallyworegownswithroundcollars,whilewomenworeshortjacketsorcoatswithmatchingshortrobesorChinese-stylejacketswithbuttonsdownthefront.Thiselegantstylewasinfluencedbythedressofthenorthernminoritypeoples.Gauzepants.SouthernSongdynasty.Chayuanshan,Fuzhou,Fujianprovince.Thispairofpantsismadefromextremel

16、ythingauzedecoratedwithpreciousobjects(goldingots,swastikas,coral,rhinocerotichorns,dharmawheels),lozengesandflowers,allarrangedinanelegantandorderlymanner.PantsinthisstylewerepopularintheSongdynastyandusuallywornunderalongskirt.Song DynastySong Dynasty Ithasalreadybeganfoot-bindingintheSongdynastyw

17、hensancunjinlianhascameintobeing.三寸金莲三寸金莲Yuan Dynastyuan DynastyTheYuanDynasty(1279-1368)wastheamalgamationageofethnicgroupsinChinashistory,andthedressesandpersonaladornmentsofthistimealsofullyrepresentedthisfeature.ThecostumesofYuanDynastyhasnofixedstyle,themainstyleisrobe.Thereislittledifferencein

18、robebetweenmenandwomen.However,duetotheCharacteristicofnation,thegarmentsinYuanDynastyaredividedintoMongolianstyleandHanstyle.Yuan Dynastyuan Dynasty蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟冠罟罟冠”，高约高约70100厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽形；外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱形；外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱。Yuan Dynastyuan DynastyZhisunfu:质孙服上衣下裳，上紧下短，并

19、在腰间加襞(b）积，肩背挂大珠Zhisunfuwasjustformulatedin1321duringthereignofYuanEmperorYingzongbyreferringtoancientsystems:upperandlowershortgarmentswerepiecedtogether;foldswereaddedtothewaistline,andbigbeadswerehungonshouldersandtheback.Emperorsandofficialsinallranksworesuchgarments,andtheHanpeoplecalledthemasth

20、eYiseyi.（一色衣）.Yuan Dynastyuan DynastyYuan Dynastyuan Dynasty元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽瓦楞帽”，有方圆两种样式，顶中装，有方圆两种样式，顶中装饰有珠宝。饰有珠宝。Qing Dynasty During the Qing Dynasty,clothes were elegant and poised(雍容华贵的).People at that time wore clothes befitting their social status,official ranks(社会地位)and lif

21、estyle according to the regulations of the Qing government.Theornamentationofformal(chaofu)andsemi-formal(jifu)courtrobesincludedthedragonmotiftogetherwithadecorativerepresentationoftheChineseconceptionofthecosmos.Thedragonsymbolisedtheemperor,knownastheSonofHeaven,andpermissiontoweartherobewasgiven

22、byhim.Those who passed the civil service examinations and attained the status of a government official were also granted the privilege of wearing court robes.Rank was further distinguished by a hierarchy of colour and ornamentation.The cheongsam is an eminently feature of Qizhuang costume,which stil

23、l has certain impacts on modern costume.Especially,along with the development of China,a cheongsam that demonstrates womens curvaceous beauty has become the representative garment of the Han people,as it can show the femininity and temperament of oriental ladies.Main Characteristics shirt is not exp

24、osed(衫不露外衫不露外)the right-side lapel of junction decorated with buttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰)clothing plus clothing(衣外加衣衣外加衣)increase waistcoat or jacket(增加坎肩或马褂增加坎肩或马褂)Main Characteristics clothes do not get the waist down(衣服上下不取腰身衣服上下不取腰身)Rectangular outline(外轮廓呈长方形外轮廓呈长方形)Horseshoe-shaped sleeve cove

25、r hand(马蹄袖盖手马蹄袖盖手)set rolling craft decoration(镶滚工艺装饰镶滚工艺装饰)flowerpot shoes(花盆鞋花盆鞋)The Chinese traditional costume CheongsamCheongsamContentslThe definition of cheongsam lThe evolution of cheongsamlThe structure of cheongsamlRepresentative figuresDefinitionQipao(Chi pao)is one of the most typical,tr

26、aditional costumes for Chinese women.Also known as cheongsam,it is like a wonderful flower in the Chinese colorful fashion scene because of its particular charm.The evolutionThe late Qing Dynasty.In 1919,the Ordinance（法令法令）about garments（服装）was announced by the National Government and cheongsam was

27、established to be the national garments.In 1920s In the early Republic of China,the cheongsam began to be popular again.From the 1950s to 1960sIn 1950s and 1960s,cheongsams began to show up again in the peoples lives.From the 1930s to 1940s 1930s and 1940s saw the cheongsam in its peak fashion.Golde

28、n Era Golden Era The evolutionIn modern times.Popular again now.From 1966 to 1976Cultural Revolution,disasterThe evolutionFrog Frog 盘扣盘扣盘扣盘扣The structure立领立领襟襟衩衩Mandarin collar Mandarin collar 立领立领立领立领Lapel Lapel 襟襟襟襟Openings Openings 衩衩衩衩embroideryembroidery刺绣刺绣The styleSleeves:Sleeves:wide wide sl

29、eeves,sleeves,narrownarrow and and longlong sleeves,sleeves,middlemiddle sleeves,sleeves,shortshort sleeves or sleeveless.sleeves or sleeveless.JinJin（襟）（襟）:roundround Jin,Jin,straightstraight Jin,Jin,slantingslanting Jin(Jin(斜襟斜襟),double),double JinJin（双襟）（双襟）,Pipa Jin,Pipa Jin（琵琶襟）（琵琶襟）,and so on.

30、,and so on.Collar(Collar(领领):):highhigh collar,collar,lowlow collar collar，or collarless.or collarless.OpeningsOpenings（开衩）（开衩）:high high openings,openings,lowlow openings,no openings,no openingopeninglong sleevesshort sleeves sleevelessHigh collarCollarlessLow collarRepresentative figures张爱玲张爱玲 Eil

31、een Chang(1920-1995)A well-known writer，be addicted to cheongsam.Life is a colorful gown,covered with lice.宋美龄宋美龄Soong May-ling (1897-2003)First lady in Republic of China.旗袍第一夫人旗袍第一夫人She owns the most number of qipao all over the world.邓丽君邓丽君Where there are Chinese there is her voice,she really made

32、 the beauty of the cheongsam,cheongsam accomplished her legend.In the film In the Mood for Love（似水年华）（似水年华），Maggie Cheung（张曼玉）（张曼玉）change more than 23 sets of qipao,after the movie release.It set off a rush of“cheongsam hot.Cheongsam reflects the elegant charm of oriental women玉玉脂脂白白Expo(展览会展览会)2010

33、 Shanghai China Cheongsam for Miss Manners青青花花瓷瓷宝蓝宝蓝Thank you!现代民族服饰现在，民族服饰是指各民族本身文化中独有特色的服饰，也可以称为地方服饰或民俗服饰。由于我国民族众多，我今天重点介绍一下苗族服饰和白族服饰。苗族服饰是我国所有民族服饰中最为华丽的服饰，既是中华文化中的一朵奇葩，也是历史文化的瑰宝。Modern Ethnic ClothingNational dress is the unique culture of the nations own unique costumes,can also be called local

34、dress or folk costumes.Because of the many ethnic groups in our country,I will focus on the Miao costume and Bai clothing.Miao costume are the most gorgeous costumes of all ethnic groups in our country.It is not only a wonderful flower in Chinese culture,but also a treasure of historical culture.Mia

35、o costume Pleatedcoat（对襟短衣）Widelegpants（宽腿裤）Pleatedskirtwithdifferentlength（长短不同的百褶裙）Colorfulheaddress（多姿多采的头饰）Miao costume White gown （白布长衫）Greenclothpants（青布裤）Brightcolorofthewaistcoat（色泽艳丽的坎肩）Headbandtoweringfeathercrown（头带巍峨羽冠）白族崇尚白色，衣物以白色为贵。再配以色彩对比明快而映衬协调、挑绣精美的披挂，充分反映了白族人在服装艺术上的高度智慧。白族服饰Bai clo

36、thingBai advocate white,white clothes for your clothes.Matched with the contrast of bright color and the background of coordination,pick embroidered exquisite cloth,full reflects the Bai people in the clothing art of the high degree of wisdom.Bai clothing The white scarf （白头巾）Red waistcoat （红坎肩）White shirt （白上衣）Embroidery“Hundred shoes”（绣花“百节鞋”）Bai clothing The white breasted jacket （白色对襟衣）Black collar coat jacket （黑领挂外套）Satin collar coat （绸缎领褂）Little and dainty Embroidered Purse （小巧玲珑的绣花荷包）