制鞋业标准流程之-成型篇(图文并茂).ppt
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1、 鞋面與大底成型鞋面與大底成型ASSEMBLE UPPER&O/S 依照鞋子結構的不同依照鞋子結構的不同,通常分車中底與結幫通常分車中底與結幫兩種成型流程兩種成型流程:According to the different shoe construction,there are two kinds of assembly procedure,strobel&lasting.結幫流程又分為一次流程及兩次流程或多次結幫流程又分為一次流程及兩次流程或多次流程流程.For the lasting construction,there are 3kinds of procedure,one time la
2、sting&two times lasting or more than two time lasting.這裡僅以一次結幫流程為例這裡僅以一次結幫流程為例,了解成型的過了解成型的過程程:Here only show the one time lasting procedure for example to know the assembly procedure:1.浸浸 康康 特特SOAK TR COUNTER1,浸康特時注意康特角不要浸膠。浸康特時注意康特角不要浸膠。Pay more attention to the bottom of TR counter cant be soaked.
3、2用鑷子夾住康特放入用鑷子夾住康特放入513藥水中藥水中,只要除康特腳外其他部分只要除康特腳外其他部分有碰到膠水有碰到膠水,就馬上取出來就馬上取出來.浸膠不宜過久浸膠不宜過久過久會使康特軟化。過久會使康特軟化。Clip the counter with forceps and then put it into 513 primer.Dont soak counter too long to avoid the counter from soften.3康特浸好后需放在鐵綱滴干。康特浸好后需放在鐵綱滴干。Put the counter on the iron shelf after soakin
4、g.4康特擺放鐵架上涼干時不宜過久康特擺放鐵架上涼干時不宜過久,不要超過不要超過15分鐘。分鐘。Make the counter dry not more than 15 minutes.5.操作員應戴上手套及口罩等環保用品操作員應戴上手套及口罩等環保用品.The operator should wear the safe things of glove&respirator.Applied Tooling:鐵網 Iron meshwork手套Glove鑷子 forceps鐵架Iron shelf1,從裝鞋面的車架上取下鞋面從裝鞋面的車架上取下鞋面,貼上流水標以便配雙作業貼上流水標以便配雙作業
5、,剪斷剪斷連線連線,放鞋面入流水帶上放鞋面入流水帶上.Take the upper from the shelf and attach pair number sticker,then snip the thread that make one pair of upper together,at last put upper on conveyer belt.2,剪線時不要剪到鞋面剪線時不要剪到鞋面.Dont break the upper when snip thread.3.注意鞋面要配雙注意鞋面要配雙.Note:Need make the upper pair.2.准備放鞋面准備放鞋面P
6、REPARE UPPERApplied Tooling:剪刀 scissor 1.取一小塊泡棉取一小塊泡棉,對折好再夾在夾子上對折好再夾在夾子上,刷膠時將泡棉在膠水刷膠時將泡棉在膠水裡浸一下裡浸一下.Prepare a little piece of foam or cloth and fold then nip it with clamp.Soak a moment before cementing.2.從裝楦頭的車上取下楦頭從裝楦頭的車上取下楦頭,將楦頭底面周圍將楦頭底面周圍10MM寬刷白膠寬刷白膠Take the last from the shelf,then cement aroun
7、d last bottom 10mm width with latex.3,刷膠時左手握楦頭刷膠時左手握楦頭,右手拿夾子右手拿夾子.刷膠要均勻到位刷膠要均勻到位.During cementing,the left hand hold the last&the right hand hold clamp.Make sure to cement evenly and completely.4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品.The operator should wear the safe things of respirators.3.楦頭底刷白膠楦頭底刷白膠 CEMENT
8、 LAST BOTTOM WITH LATEXApplied Tooling:夾子Clamp膠壺 Glue pot4.中底正面刷白水膠中底正面刷白水膠CEMENT THE INSOLE BOARD1.中底整形中底整形,壓力壓力30KG,時間時間5”.Mold the insole board with pressure 30kg&time 5”.2,刷膠前將中底板排放整齊刷膠前將中底板排放整齊,左手壓住中底板左手壓住中底板,右手拿刷子右手拿刷子.Before cementing,the left hand hold the last&the right hand hold clamp.3.用刷
9、子沿中底上面周圍用刷子沿中底上面周圍15MM寬刷白膠寬刷白膠,刷膠要均勻到位刷膠要均勻到位.Take the insole board from the shelf,then cement around the top of insole board 15mm width with latex.Make sure to cement evenly and completely.4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品.The operator should wear the safe things of respirators.Applied Tooling:夾子Clamp膠壺
10、 Glue pot5.鞋面後跟刷膠鞋面後跟刷膠CEMENT HEEL UPPER 1.1.滾里及鞋面後跟兩邊擦黃膠滾里及鞋面後跟兩邊擦黃膠,膠水要均勻膠水要均勻,到位到位.不可積膠不可積膠.Cement the both sides of collar lining and heel upper with 766N Cement the both sides of collar lining and heel upper with 766N yellow glue.Make sure to cement evenly&completely but not amass yellow glue.M
11、ake sure to cement evenly&completely but not amass into a pile.into a pile.2,2,刷好膠的鞋面刷好膠的鞋面按規定在流水線上排放整齊按規定在流水線上排放整齊,保持順暢的流保持順暢的流程程,流進烘箱。流進烘箱。Put the upper on the conveyer belt in order to keep the procedure Put the upper on the conveyer belt in order to keep the procedure smooth through oven after c
12、ement.smooth through oven after cement.3.3.設定烘箱的溫度為設定烘箱的溫度為7070度度,時間時間1 1分鐘分鐘.Adjust the temperature 70&time 1min.Adjust the temperature 70&time 1min.4.4.過此烘箱的作用是烘干膠水過此烘箱的作用是烘干膠水,軟化鞋面軟化鞋面.Let glue dry&soften the upper through the oven.Let glue dry&soften the upper through the oven.Applied Tooling:刷子
13、Brush膠壺 Glue pot鞋面後跟/滾裡刷膠過烘箱6.貼後跟康特貼後跟康特ATTACHE HEEL COUNTER 1.左手拿鞋面左手拿鞋面右手拉開內里右手拉開內里.左手拿鞋面左手拿鞋面,右手如圖所示拿康右手如圖所示拿康特特,先使康特腳平齊畫線先使康特腳平齊畫線,對准后跟中心點并貼死對准后跟中心點并貼死,再壓康特的再壓康特的上沿固定上沿固定.Left hand hold the upper,and the right hand undraw the collar lining.The left still hand hold the upper,and the right hand ho
14、ld the counter as shown on the illustration No.2.At first make the bottom edge of counter align the mark line¢er mark,and press the bottom center portion of counter,then press the top center portion of it to fix the center position.3.右手從中心點向兩邊固定康特下沿右手從中心點向兩邊固定康特下沿.Press the counter bottom from t
15、he center portion to both sides.4.5,固定康特外腰及內腰固定康特外腰及內腰.Attach the lateral&medial portion of counter.6.貼滾口內裡並摸平貼滾口內裡並摸平.At last attach the collar lining&make it smooth.4,固定康特外腰3,固定康特下沿5,固定康特內腰2,固定后跟中心點1,后跟滾里與鞋面須拉順6,滾里貼死并摸平7.後跟康特整形後跟康特整形MOLD HEEL COUNTER1,裝上正確的定型模裝上正確的定型模.通常熱熔膠港寶用冷定型通常熱熔膠港寶用冷定型,康特用熱康特
16、用熱定型定型,溫度大約溫度大約60度度,壓力壓力5KG,時間大約時間大約8”.Set up the correct molding mold.Commonly for hot melt counter use the cool mold,for TR counter use the heat mold with temp 60&pressure 5kg&time 8 sec.2.將裝好康特的鞋面將裝好康特的鞋面,分左右腳放在相應的定型模上分左右腳放在相應的定型模上.Put the left&right upper with counter on the proper mould special
17、ly.3.使鞋面後跟中心對准後定型模的中心使鞋面後跟中心對准後定型模的中心,再整型再整型.Need back stitch 3-4 stitches on the start&stop stitching portion.定型機Back molding machine定型模Molding moldApplied Tooling:8.貼中底貼中底ATTACH INSOLE1,左手拿楦頭左手拿楦頭,右手拿中底右手拿中底,將中底中心點對准楦頭中心點將中底中心點對准楦頭中心點,從後跟往前貼從後跟往前貼.The left hand hold the last to make up the bottom,
18、and the right hand hold the insole to make the center match the last,then attach the insole on last from heel to front.2.確保中底弧度與楦頭弧度相吻合確保中底弧度與楦頭弧度相吻合.Make sure the insole fit with last.9.鞋面余皮刷膠鞋面余皮刷膠CEMENT THE TOE LAST ALLOWANCE1.通常對於一次流程的鞋面通常對於一次流程的鞋面,均用白水膠刷鞋面余皮均用白水膠刷鞋面余皮.對於多次流程的對於多次流程的鞋面鞋面,均用均用PU膠
19、刷鞋面余皮膠刷鞋面余皮.Commonly for the shoe that only need be lasted one time,cement the last allowance with latex.For the shoe that need be lasted more than one,cement the last allowance with PU glue.2,左手拿鞋面左手拿鞋面,右手拿刷子右手拿刷子.刷鞋面頭莊余皮刷鞋面頭莊余皮10mm寬寬.The left hand hold the upper,and the right hand hold the brush,c
20、ement the toe last allowance with width 10mm.3,刷膠要到位刷膠要到位,均勻均勻,但不能刷太高也不能溢膠但不能刷太高也不能溢膠.刷膠後放入流水線刷膠後放入流水線,送送進烘箱進烘箱.Cementing should be complete&even but not too high or come out.Put it on the conveyer belt through the oven after cementing.4,烘箱溫度設為烘箱溫度設為80度度,時間時間2分鐘分鐘.Adjust the temperature 80&time 2 mi
21、n of oven .5,過此烘箱的目的過此烘箱的目的,使鞋面余皮的膠水干一些使鞋面余皮的膠水干一些.Make the glue for the lasting allowance dry through the ovenApplied Tooling:刷子Brush 膠壺Glue pot鞋面結幫余皮刷膠 過烘箱10.鞋頭軟化鞋頭軟化SOFTEN TOP PORTION1.調整鞋頭軟化模的溫度調整鞋頭軟化模的溫度150-200度度,時間時間8-10”.Adjust the temperature to150-200 and time 8-10”of mold for softening the
22、 upper.2.一般足球鞋或鞋面皮料較硬的鞋面需經過此流程軟化一般足球鞋或鞋面皮料較硬的鞋面需經過此流程軟化,以免以免結幫後鞋面花角結幫後鞋面花角.Commonly for the football shoe or the shoe that upper leather is too soft,both need through this procedure to avoid wrinkle after last.Applied Tooling:軟化機 Soften machine11.前接幫前接幫TOE LASTINGApplied Tooling:1.1.設定正確的前幫機使用參數設定正確
23、的前幫機使用參數,壓頭壓力壓頭壓力:35kg.:35kg.壓著時間壓著時間:5:5秒秒,掃刀溫度掃刀溫度:室內自然溫度室內自然溫度.Set correct parameter for the toe lasting machine:Pressure:35kg,time:5 sec Set correct parameter for the toe lasting machine:Pressure:35kg,time:5 sec,temperature of wiper as the indoors .,temperature of wiper as the indoors .2.2.前抓的排放
24、要與楦頭弧度相吻合前抓的排放要與楦頭弧度相吻合.The shape of claw should fit the last.The shape of claw should fit the last.3.3.前幫時前幫時,中心點要對正中心點要對正,前爪要抓齊印刷線前爪要抓齊印刷線(點點),),余皮按印刷線作業余皮按印刷線作業.During toe lasting,make sure the center match the last&the claw of machine During toe lasting,make sure the center match the last&the cl
25、aw of machine align the marking for lasting.Make sure the allowance follow the printing line.align the marking for lasting.Make sure the allowance follow the printing line.4.4.結幫後結幫後,頭莊高度要一致頭莊高度要一致.Make sure the toe height consistent.Make sure the toe height consistent.前幫機Toe lasting machine12.插鞋叉插鞋
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