[精选]Northface冲锋衣工艺.pptx

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1、Snowsports Construction StandardsFall 2007 and Forward滑雪衣做工標準07年秋開始Please refer to each style for any constructions deviating from the standards.做工與標準不符的請按每款的具體要求處理 If you have any questions,contact Ligia Ferrey,Kassie Maurer or Linda Chung Date Originated:September,20052023/11/261Table of ContentsS

2、ewing Specifications 縫紉說明 Stitching pg.3 第三頁 車線 Tacking pg.4 固定 Bartacking pg.5 打結 General Features 一般做工說明 mon Features pg.6 一般做工說明 Insulations pg.7 絕緣設置 Shockcord Attachment pg.8 繩扣做工 Zipper Cover Standards pg.9 10 拉鏈蓋布標準 Label and Hangtag Placement pg.11 14 標及吊卡的位置 Logo Placement pg.15 16 Logo 的位置

3、Jacket Features 夾克做工要求 CF Closure pg.17 前中開口 TriClimate features pg.18 19 兩件式夾克做工 Hoods pg.20 24 帽子 Pockets pg.25 28 口袋 Venting pg.29 通風處做工 Cuff pg.30-31 袖口 Sleeve Articulation pg.32 袖子 RECCO placement pg.32 RECCO的位置 Hem Adjustment pg.33-35 下擺 Powderskirt pg.36-38 下擺擋風片Pant Features 褲子做工要求 CF Closur

4、e pg.39 前中開口 Waistband pg.40 41 腰頭 Pockets pg.42 口袋 Vents pg.43 通風處做工 Knee Articulation pg.44 膝蓋 Edgeguards/Bindings pg.46 包邊 Linings and Leg Gaitors pg.45 腳口綁腿力做工 RECCO placement pg.47 RECCO的位置 Revisions 回顧Last page 最後一頁2023/11/262Stitching Standards:車線說明Top stitching to be 12 SPI 車線請用12 SPI車線Use P

5、oly Core Thread for garment construction and topstitching unless otherwise indicated.除非特殊說明,衣服縫製請都用POLY 包芯線.Overlock,Flat Lock and Cover stitch to be 12 SPI 拷克，平車及三本車都用 12SPI車線Pre-Stitch and Stay stitch to be 9-11 SPI,depending on the usage.根據用途,起針和回針用 9-11 SPIAll lining fabric that can potentially

6、fray should have its interior raw edges joined with 4 thread safety stitch.所有有可能磨破的裡布,布邊都要用4線拷克拷過Cover stitch to be used on stretch mesh fabric seams.有彈力的網布縫份用三本車All stretchy fabrics should use 4 thread safety for all join seams.Cannot use lockstitch as it will cause popping and open seam.所有有彈性布的拼合縫

7、份都要用4線拷克.Chain-stitch is not used unless otherwise specified on Construction Details page.沒有特殊說明,做工細則裡的則不使用鎖鏈車.Back tack stitching shall be 3 stitches long for security.為平安考慮，回針至少要有3針長.All thread color to be DTM for all color blocking panels unless otherwise specified.如沒有特殊說明，所有剪接用線應為同布色For non-Gore

8、 products use 22mm seam tape for all critical seams.Use 17mm seam tape for all non-critical seams,unless otherwise stated.除非特殊說明,款式的關鍵部位剪接線,使用22mm寬的防水貼條,非關鍵部位剪接線,使用17mm寬的防水貼條Vivian remarks-關鍵部位:上衣:前中/外長/領圍 長褲:前後擋/內外長 非關鍵部位:袖攏及其他剪接線 開發時先按客人規定如有不能貼合或是寬度貼上去有問題要先與客人聯繫.Logo 局部的防水貼條,需提供廠商加寬後長x寬的尺寸,訂購整塊四周圓

9、角的防水貼條,直接熱壓上LogoSeam Seal Taping should be centered over seam stitching.Cross over seams should be re-pressed.防水貼條要貼在縫份中間，十字重疊處要用機器重複加溫加壓.Bartack use Tex 27 Perma Spun Thread,42 SPIs,3/8 length.打結用Tex 27 Perma 的車線，42SPI,打結長3/8.Sewing Specifications Sewing Specifications 縫紉說明縫紉說明2023/11/263Tacking St

10、andards:固定標準For Gore-tex Shell jackets:All linings to be tacked onto shell by Z-liner.Gore-tex款式,所有裡布要用Z-liner固定在表布上Vivian remarks-Z-liner:一種特殊的布種,可用防水膠袋直接貼上去For Non-Gore Shell jackets:All linings to be swag tacked onto shell by stripes of self shell fabric.非Gore-tex要使用本布固定表裡布The tacking points are:

11、表裡固定點位置CB Neck on Taped jackets.Entire neck seam on non-taping garments.有防水貼條的衣服只需固定于后中領圍，沒有防水貼條的衣服固定于全部領圍線High point shoulders 領肩點Sleeve Caps.No need for raglan sleeve 袖肩點拉格蘭袖不用Under armholes 袖籠底端Elbows.Depending on design肘部按不同設計而定Lower forearm seam 6 8 from cuff edge.Depending on design前臂下端距袖口剪接6

12、8 按不同設計而定5 7 from hood brim edge at hood run seam.Depending on design帽剪接在距帽沿5 7 處按不同設計而定At waist points for styles with free hanging lining.自由懸垂的裡布固定在腰剪接處All pocket bags should be sewn,tacked,or swag tacked their upper or functional corners.所有口袋都需縫製或者固定在其上端或角落處Vivian remarks-固定布條須直接與剪接線車合一起,再貼膠條.固定布

13、條處不需測水壓.布料薄:固定布條對折.布料厚:固定布條單層即可不須對折.Sewing Specifications Sewing Specifications 縫紉細則縫紉細則帽沿往帽中縫份57“處領肩點肩點腋下點肘點請根據設計下臂點請根據設計腰頭整個後領圍線2023/11/264Sewing SpecificationsSewing Specifications縫紉細則縫紉細則Bartacking Standards:打結標準All pocket openings,flaps,vents and zipper ends shall have bartacks.所有口袋開口，擋風片，蓋排，透氣

14、孔以及拉鏈兩端都要打結When bartacking an exposed PU zipper,the bartack should be hidden under die cut shell.當拉鍊為露齒PU拉鏈時，打結需隱藏在大身布下如圖一 Keep bartack exposed when infusion is around the perimeter of the zipper.Be sure to place the bartack as close to the bottom of zipper as possible.當拉鏈周邊有粘合膠時，打結要外露，而且要盡量靠近拉鏈底端如圖

15、二The bartack dimension to be W 1/16 x L 3/8.The length can be extended to whenever necessary.3 pass bartack for weak fabrics.打結尺寸W*H:1/16 x 3/8,需要的時候長度可以加長到，防水拉鍊尾端用平車來回車3次加固.圖一 圖二 隱藏打結用在外露式拉鍊外露式打結用在拉鏈四周有貼裝飾膠Vivian remarks-客人建議用平車來回加固3次比打結好2023/11/265General Features General Features 總體做工要求總體做工要求 mon

16、 Features:總體做工要求All eyelets and grommets should be reinforced by shell fabric or washer,whichever most suitable.合適的時候，所有G眼需用本布或塑膠墊片加強.eyelet&gromment都是指G眼Grommet size 4.2 mm with single 2.5 mm shockcord.4.2mm應是指內徑的G眼使用2.5mm的繩.Grommet size 5.6 mm with single 3 mm shockcord or with double 2.5 mm shock

17、cords.5.6mm的G眼使用3mm的繩.或雙倍2.5mm 寬的繩.shochcords=繩的統稱If applicable,use appropriate sized washer with metal snaps for satisfactory performance.為運動時的平安考慮,如果可行的話把大小合適的金屬四合釦和塑膠墊片一起使用.All buttonholes should be reinforced by interlining.所有鎖眼要用襯加強.All grossgrain tapes,drawcords,webbing and elastics should hav

18、e heat cut ends.所有綢緞類織帶和鬆緊帶都要用熱切.All shockcord tunnels should be lined with a taffeta tunnel to allow the shockcord to run smoothly.See sketch on page 8.有shockcord的繩孔道都需多家層taffeta在孔道內,讓使使用者在使用繩子時能控制自如.可參考第8頁Vivian remarks-客人表示在開發時可先不加taffeta,等客人 ments再說.All shockcords settings shall be looped and wr

19、apped by taffeta extension and only the fabric will be attached with stitch or bartack.For hood,and hem drawcord.See sketch on page 8.所有Shockcord繩孔道,在壓線或打結後完成寬均為1/2“在帽子及下擺也是可參考第8頁Cordlocks shall be tied down with grossgrain ribbon and bartacked,unless otherwise specified.沒有特殊說明彈簧扣都要用布條固定尾端並打結All poc

20、ket bags should be sewn,tacked or swag tacked at their upper or functional corners.Hand pocket should be tacked to CF seams but not to hem.所有口袋需縫製或固定在其上端或功能處。手口袋只需固定在前中處,腰頭或下擺不需固定All pocket bags should have shell facings on both layers for waterproofness.為達到防水的效果，口袋上下兩層都要用本布的貼邊All Velcro corners to

21、be trimmed away so corners are rounded.See sketch.所有粘扣袋四周都要圓形的,如圖所示.Zippers set into clean finish faced window,from flap seam to allow seam taping.拉鏈內邊壓線距蓋片壓線 寬以便貼防水貼條.All Coil and Vislon zippers should be centered with appropriate amount of zipper tape exposed to allow slider to function easily.所有尼

22、龍塑鋼拉鏈都要位于開口的正中處，以便拉頭能活動自如 Full draft flap at CF has at least 1 vertical quilt line placed from flap setting.前中全擋風片至少要有一條豎直的壓線，距擋風片縫份1/4Please see separate document for TNF Seam Sealing Requirements.TNF 的貼合要求請看另外的材料 Vivian remarks-已跟客人澄清沒有這份文件2023/11/266General FeaturesGeneral Features總體做工要求總體做工要求INS

23、ULATED JACKETS 隔熱夾克All insulations must be quilted onto lining at maximum 6 space unless they are already attached to shell per design.A layer of fiber proof taffeta or baffle to be add between tricot pocket bags and insulation.All insulations shall be spread out and relax overnight before cut.DOWN

24、JACKETS鴨絨衣All down chambers should be filled following approved down schedule.所有鴨絨衣內要填入符合要求的鴨絨All down chamber should use down proof material.所有鴨絨衣要用防止鴨絨外露的布料If the shell is used as down chamber and the shell is not down proof,then down proof baffle should be used.如果某種不能防止鴨絨外露的布被用于鴨絨衣的大身布，那么就要用到防鴨絨露

25、出的隔層When using Light colored fabrics that might cause a see-thru problem to occur with the down,you must use Guann Lin Off-white colored baffle.All other down products use factory sourced baffle.大身布為淺色時，為防止色透能看到鴨絨，必須用非白色的Guann Lin 的隔層。其他用到的隔層有成衣廠自己選擇#9 carbonated ball point needle is re mended for d

26、own garment sewing.鴨絨衣的縫製建議用#9 號圓頭炭針Factory must calculate correct fabric shrinkage to match down filling power.成衣廠需正確計算因填鴨絨導致的多用的布量2023/11/267附加的内部信息附加的内部信息2023/11/268General Features General Features 總體做工要求總體做工要求Zipper Cover Standards:拉鏈蓋片做工標準Zipper cover length=3/8“.拉鏈蓋片長為3/8Regular Coil Zippers

27、set under flap do not get zipper covers.在口袋蓋片下的常見的尼龍拉鏈不用拉連蓋片.Reverse Coil Zippers get bottom zipper cover only.To cover the sharp metal piece反齒尼龍拉鏈只用下拉鏈蓋片蓋住金屬片Pit Zippers should have top and bottom zipper covers regardless of the whether zipper is Coil or Reversed.Unless zipper is bonded,then there

28、are no zipper covers.腋拉不管是尼龍還是反齒都要用上下蓋片如果拉鏈是貼和的，則不用拉鏈蓋片Internal Pockets:No zipper covers are needed on any internal zippers.內口袋所有內口袋都不用拉鏈蓋片常規拉鍊無須拉鍊蓋片金屬下止反齒拉鍊須加下蓋片蓋住拉鍊下止,以防下止爪子刮傷人表布蓋片2023/11/269General Features General Features 一般做工要求一般做工要求Zipper Covers vs.Zipper Garage:拉鏈蓋片和拉鏈車庫Zipper Covers are dif

29、ferent from Zipper Garages.拉鏈蓋片和拉鏈車庫不同Zipper covers simply cover the metal zipper stopper.While zipper garages act as a“garage for the slider to sit under.拉鏈蓋片只是蓋住拉鏈的金屬下止，而拉鏈車庫是用來放置拉頭的。Vivian remarks-車庫的立體份須能讓拉頭輕鬆放入Zipper Garages are called out in the sketch and construction details page.拉鏈車庫在細節做工圖上

30、另作描述Exposed,welded PU Zippers should have an internal semi-circle patch to cover top and bottom zipper ends,1/16 1/8 above the hidden bartack.外露的PU貼和的拉鏈上下止內應該有一個半圓形布貼片來蓋住 上下頂端。在隱藏的打結在距離拉鏈邊緣上1/16 1/8 處。車庫立體蓋片平的3/8寬表布蓋片需蓋住整個金屬下止外露式pu貼合拉鍊貼合拉鍊,上下端內部加補強片2023/11/2610General FeaturesGeneral Features一般做工要求一

31、般做工要求Label Placement:See Sketch pgs 12,13,14 標的位置參見12.13.14頁的圖Main label at CB neck 主標車在后領中2L Jackets have Care Label at Left side seam 5 from bottom hem edge.2L夾克的警示標,車在左前外側距下擺 5處3L Jackets have Care Label under powderskirt,set into seam where powderskirt taffeta meets mesh panel.5 from Left CF.3L的

32、衣服警示標在擋風下擺下，tafetta 布和網布的剪接線處。距左前中5。Vivian remarks-2L&3L 都是指布,只是布本身的層數區分 2L=本布+膠 3L=本布+膠+網布Pants have Care Label at front waistband on the right side 5 from CF.褲子的警示標車在前腰頭右邊距前中5處Media Label woven or heat transfer is 1 below neckline on wearers Left CF facing.耳機標平織或熱轉印車在穿者左前內貼上領圍線下 1處.Goggle Pocket L

33、abel woven or heat transfer is 11 below neckline on wearers Right CF Facing.護目鏡口袋標平織或熱轉印車在穿者右前內貼上領圍線下 11處.Soft Shell Jackets and Pants have loop main label CB neck/waistband.Care label is placed under main label.軟料緊身夾克或褲子的環形主標車在后中領圍或腰頭。警示標車在主標下Hangtag Placement:吊卡位置Hangtags are located at Left Hand

34、pocket swift tacked through slider for jackets and bottoms.吊卡穿在左手口袋 拉鏈拉頭中間的孔上。2023/11/2611Label PlacementLabel Placement11/2寬前內貼護目鏡標位於內領圍線下11“處耳機標位於內領圍線下1“處洗標位於內下擺上5“處本布掛耳長 3“x 5/16 寬完成中間間距1“1/4寬主標位於內領圍線下1“1/22023/11/2612Label PlacementLabel PlacementSoft Shell Jacket警告標位於內下擺上 5“處本布掛耳長 3“x 5/16 寬完成中

35、間間距1“1/4寬2023/11/2613Label PlacementLabel PlacementPatch on LabelLoop Label本布掛耳長 3“x 5/16 寬完成中間間距1“1/4寬主標位於內腰頭下11/2處本布掛耳長 3“x 5/16 寬完成中間間距1“1/4寬洗標距內前擋5“處警告標距內前擋5“處2023/11/2614General Features General Features 一般做工要求一般做工要求Logo Placement:Logo 位置量到Logo上下居中處Tops General Standards depending on styling:上衣

36、的一般做工要求以款式而定TNF Embroidery or Heat Transfer is placed at Front Left Chest and Back Right Shoulder.If theres a yoke,then placement is 1 above or below yoke seam.TNF 的繡花或熱轉印在左前胸和右后肩。如果有約克，則在約克縫份上或下 11/2處。For Ms:use TGZ1 X-Large logo 男式 大身布用TGZ1加大的logoFront logo is placed 4 from CF and 6 from HPS 前片log

37、o 距前中 4，距肩頂點 6 Back logo is placed 5 from CB and 6 from HPS 后片logo 距后中 5，距肩頂點 6For Ws:Shell use TGY7 Large logo 女式大身布用TGY7 大的logoFront logo is placed 4 from CF and 5 from HPS 前片logo 距前中 4，距肩頂點 5 Back logo is plaved 4 from CB and 5 from HPS 后片logo 距后中 4，距肩頂點 5For Ws:Softshell&liner jacket use TGY8 Me

38、dium logo女式緊身或內夾克用TGY8中號logoSame placement as Shell above和上邊一項相同的位置Fabric Embroidery or Heat Transfer centered on Left Sleeve unless otherwise specified.除非有特殊說明，繡花或熱轉印都位在左袖中間位置For Ws:3 above cuff edge.女款:位於距袖口邊緣 3處For Ms:4 above cuff edge 男款:位於距袖口邊緣 4處Down Fill Embroidery or Heat Transfer centered o

39、n Left sleeve unless otherwise specified.除非有特殊說明，鴨絨繡花或熱轉印在左袖中間位置For Ws:3 above cuff edge.女款:位於距袖口邊緣 3處For Ms:4 above cuff edge男款:位於距袖口邊緣 4處If there are Fabric and Down Fill embroideries,the Down Fill will be 1 below the Fabric.如有布和鴨絨繡花，鴨絨應在布下1處Summit Series logo is centered on Left Bicep Summit Seri

40、es logo 在左臂圍中間Segment Series logo:Designers Choice Segment Series logo 設計師自己決定RECCO embroidery for hidden device is placed 3 above cuff edge on the right sleeve探測標繡花針對隱藏的儀器位于右袖袖口剪接3處2023/11/2615General FeaturesGeneral Features一般做工要求一般做工要求Logo Placement:logo 位置Bottoms General Standard depending on st

41、yling 下裝 一般做工細則根據款式而定TNF Embroidery or Heat Transfer Front Left Knee and Back Lower Right Leg TNF的繡花或熱轉印在左前膝和右后下腿處For Ms:男式Logo is placed 2 from outseam to the center of TNF logo Logo 位于從外長到TNF logo中間 2 處Front logo is placed 13 from Hem if below knee dart and 16 from Hem if above knee darts unless o

42、therwise specified前logo如果在膝部褶之下，則位于 位于腳口之上 13 處，如果在膝部褶之上，則為于下 腳口之上 16Back logo is placed 5 from Hem 后logo 距腳口 5For Ws:女式Logo is placed 2 from outseam to the center of TNF logo Logo 位于從外長到TNF logo中間 2 處Front logo is placed 17 1/2 from Hem unless otherwise specified 沒有特殊說明,前logo距下腳口 17 1/2 Back logo i

43、s placed 4 1/2 from Hem 后logo 距下腳口 4 1/2 Fabric Embroidery or Heat Transfer centered on Left Hip panel,below WB and 1 from out seam to center of TNF logo 布繡花或熱轉印在左臀剪接中間，腰頭下 ，從外長到TNF logo中間 1 處Segment Series:Designers Choice Segment Series由設計師決定RECCO embroidery for hidden device is placed 1/2 below R

44、ecco device placement探測標繡花針對隱藏的儀器位于腰頭下1/2，距外長 1 Logo距腰下1/2“,距外長11/42023/11/2616Jacket Features Jacket Features 夾克一般做工要求夾克一般做工要求CF Closure:前中門襟開口Mens and Womens jackets close Left over Right.男式和女式都是左邊蓋住右邊For Jackets with flaps,hidden CF zipper set from collar edge and finishes 1 above hem.有擋風片的夾克,其隱藏

45、的前拉要在低于前中開口領圍開始，下擺上1處結束Exposed CF Zippers set from collar edge and finishes even with hem.前中露齒拉鏈低于領 開始，齊下擺結束Velcro closure:Loop set to placket facing and Hook set to body.粘扣帶毛面在門襟上，勾面在大身上Top collar velcro placed below collar edge 粘扣帶在領上圍下 開始CF Placket velcro placed from neck seam 前中開口粘扣帶在領下圍下處開始距領圍線

46、1/4“距領沿1/4“粘扣帶毛面粘扣帶勾面隱藏式前拉外露式前拉前中粘扣帶位置2023/11/2617Jacket FeaturesJacket Features夾克一般做工要求夾克一般做工要求Zip-In Liner TriClimate Features 兩件式夾克表裡固定Shell Jacket inner CF Zipper Setting Guidelines:外夾克上的內夾克前拉放置的指導方針3 up from neckline seam for 3 to 3 collar height of Liner Jacket.領高為3 to 3 時，內夾克拉鏈在領圍線上3 開始車。Addi

47、tional CF Facing 3/4“between the Shell Zipper and Zip-In Zippers在內夾克和外夾克的拉鏈中間加間距3/4“寬的前內貼2 Chinguards cover inner CF zipper.雙片式下顎擋風片需蓋住內件前拉Liner Jacket CF Zipper should be a Reverse Slider內夾克拉鏈的應該是用反轉拉頭下顎擋風片內前拉外前拉2023/11/2618Jacket FeaturesJacket Features夾克一般做工夾克一般做工3-Point System for TriClimates 兩件

48、式夾克的表裡固定Liner Jacket snaps into Shell Jkt at 3 points:CB neck and Cuffs 表裡夾克在後領中及左右袖口三處用扣子固定Shell Jacket CB Neck lining has 18L Snap Tab and Liner Jacket has CB Neck Spaghetti Loop at exterior 外夾克后領內有一18L的扣子，內夾克后領外有一個環。Shell Jacket Cuffs back lining has Elastic Loops and Liner Jacket Cuffs back exte

49、rior have 18L Snap Tabs.外夾克兩個袖口內側有鬆緊環，內夾克袖口外側有18L的扣子。後中四合扣為調整用鬆緊掛耳在外夾克上,供內夾克與外夾克固定起用2寬袖口貼邊外夾克左袖口貼邊四合扣絆車在內夾克袖口縫份21/2為雙摺長度 拉環1高處加打結外夾克後領圍縫線內夾克後領圍縫線內夾克右後袖口距外長1“內夾克右後袖口2023/11/2619Jacket FeaturesJacket Features夾克一般做工夾克一般做工Hoods:See sketches P.21 23 帽子做工如21 23 頁圖Rainguard tunnel is set between Hood facin

50、g and Lining Seams.Rainguard tunnel length extends to top collar edge.There is a single grommet set on hood facing.Hood shockcord exits points will differ upon hood styles.防水貼條通道在帽貼邊與裡布縫份中間，通道要延伸到領上緣。帽貼處兩邊各有一個雞眼。Hood shockcord inside rainguard tunnel should be tacked 5 apart at CF.帽子繩扣在防水貼條通道裡，距帽前中5