BenSaunders_2014[本 桑德斯][极点往返 - 我生命中最艰苦的105天].pdf

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1、www.XiYuS锡育软件So in the oasis of intelligentsia that is TED,I stand herebefore you this evening as an expert in dragging heavy stuffaround cold places.TED是智慧的绿洲,我有幸今晚站在这儿,以一位行走在天寒地冻区域的探险专家的身份发言。00:12Ive been leading polar expeditions for most of my adult life,and last month,my teammate Tarka LHerpini

2、ere and Ifinished the most ambitious expedition Ive ever attempted.成年后,我把大部分时间用于带领极地探险,上个月,我和队友拉卡赫皮尼尔,完成了有生以来最雄心勃勃的探险。00:27In fact,it feels like Ive been transported straight here fromfour months in the middle of nowhere,mostly grunting andswearing,straight to the TED stage.我差不多像是从那无人区 四个月的骂骂咧咧生活中,直

3、接被传送到了演说现场。00:39So you can imagine thats a transition that hasnt beenentirely seamless.因此你大概能注意到,我还没缓过劲儿来。00:49One of the interesting side effects seems to be that myshort-term memory is entirely shot.其中一个有意思的后遗症,就是我的短期记忆真的非常短,00:53So Ive had to write some notes to avoid too much gruntingand swearin

4、g in the next 17 minutes.所以我不得不做记些笔记,来让剩下的17分钟,不会充斥咒骂和嘟哝。00:58oasis:n.绿洲;舒适的地方;令人宽慰的事物 intelligentsia:n.知识分子;知识界 dragging:vt.牵引(drag的现在分词)/adj.拖延的;拖曳用的 expeditions:n.探险(expedition的复数);远征 expedition:n.远征;探险队;迅速 transported:v.植运输;搬运(transport的过去式)grunting:adj.呼噜的,咕哝的/v.发低沉的咕噜声;嘟哝(grunt的ing形式)swearing:

5、n.发誓;咒骂/v.发誓;咒骂(swear的ing形式)seamless:adj.无缝的;无缝合线的;无伤痕的 short-term:adj.短期的This is the first talk Ive given about this expedition,and whilewe werent sequencing genomes or building spacetelescopes,this is a story about giving everything we had toachieve something that hadnt been done before.这是我第一次谈论这次

6、探险,虽然我们没有做出基因测序,或是建太空望远镜这样的贡献,但这次探险里,我们依然竭尽所能,达成了人类前所未有的目标。01:05So I hope in that you might find some food for thought.而我也希望你们能从中获得些启示。01:20It was a journey,an expedition in Antarctica,the coldest,windiest,driest and highest altitude continent on Earth.这是一次南极洲探险,全世界最冷,风最大,最干燥,海拔最高的大洲。01:24Its a fasc

7、inating place.Its a huge place.那是个不可思议的,巨大的地方。01:32Its twice the size of Australia,a continent that is the samesize as China and India put together.它的面积是澳大利亚版图的两倍,等同于中国和印度版图面积的总和。01:34As an aside,I have experienced an interesting phenomenonin the last few days,something that I expect Chris Hadfieldm

8、ay get at TED in a few years time,conversations that gosomething like this:Oh,Antarctica.Awesome.说句题外话,前些天 我遇上了个有趣现象,宇航员克里斯哈菲尔德几年前在TED演讲时应该也经历过。我遇上了诸如此类的对话;“天啊,南极,棒极了！”,01:42My husband and I did Antarctica with Lindblad for ouranniversary.“我和老公在南极庆祝了结婚纪念日诶！”01:53sequencing:n.计排序;计定序;排列程序/v.计定序(seque

9、nce的ing形式);使按顺序排列 genomes:n.遗基因组(genome复数)food for thought:引人深思的事 driest:生硬的/干燥的/枯燥的(dry的最高级)put together:.放在一起;组合;装配Awesome:adj.令人敬畏的;使人畏惧的;可怕的;极好的Or,Oh cool,did you go there for the marathon?或是“哦,真炫,你去那儿参加马拉松了？”01:59(Laughter)Our journey was,in fact,69 marathons back toback in 105 days,an 1,800-mi

10、le round trip on foot from thecoast of Antarctica to the South Pole and back again.（笑声）我们的旅程,它实际路程约69个全程马拉松。共计105天,全程徒步从南极洲海岸 行至极点再返回,共计1800英里。02:02In the process,we broke the record for the longest human-powered polar journey in history by more than 400 miles.期间,我们打破了人类最长 人力极圈旅程的记录-比它多了400多英里。02:19

11、(Applause)For those of you from the Bay Area,it was thesame as walking from here to San Francisco,then turningaround and walking back again.（掌声）对来自湾区的各位而言,这个距离差不多是从这儿走到旧金山,再走回这里。02:27So as camping trips go,it was a long one,and one Ive seensummarized most succinctly here on the hallowed pages of这真是个

12、漫长旅程。我在马拉西亚经济洞察报中,看到关于此行最简洁的概述。02:40TED演讲者：Ben Saunders|本 桑德斯演讲标题：To the South Pole and back the hardest 105 days of my life|极点往返-我生命中最艰苦的105天内容概要：This year,explorer Ben Saunders attempted his most ambitious trek yet.He set out tocomplete Captain Robert Falcon Scott.s failed 1912 polar expedition a

13、four-month,1,800-mile round trip journey from the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back.In the first talkgiven after his adventure,just five weeks after his return,Saunders offers a raw,honest look atthis“hubris”-tinged mission that brought him to the most difficult decision of his life.今年，探

14、险家本.桑德瑞斯展开了他最雄心壮志的旅程。-完成罗伯特.法尔考.斯科特船长，1912年未尽的南极探险。历时四月，共计1800英里。-他从南极洲边缘出发，到达极点，尔后返回。在回归后五周，于三尺讲台口述的冒险历程，桑德斯诚挚且直面他的”傲慢“，这一人生最为艰难的抉择，照亮前行之路。summarized most succinctly here on the hallowed pages ofBusiness Insider Malaysia.Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition ThatKilled Everyone The Last T

15、ime It Was Attempted“两个探险家刚完成了上回尝试者全军覆没的一次极地探险。”02:52Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently about fear and about theodds of success,and indeed the odds of survival.克里斯哈菲尔德痛陈了 其中的恐惧以及成功与幸存的几率。02:58marathon:n.马拉松赛跑;耐力的考验/adj.马拉松式的;有耐力的/vi.参加马拉松赛跑 marathons:n.马拉松赛跑;耐力的考验/adj.马拉松式的;有耐力的/vi.参加马拉松赛跑 camping:

16、n.露营;野营/v.露营;扎营;临时安顿(camp的ing形式)summarized:v.总结,概括;概述(summarize的过去式及过去分词形式)succinctly:adv.简洁地;简便地 hallowed:adj.神圣的,神圣化的 Insider:n.内部的人,会员;熟悉内情者 eloquently:adv.善辩地;富于表现力地 odds:n.几率;胜算;不平等;差别Of the nine people in history that had attempted this journeybefore us,none had made it to the pole and back,an

17、d fivehad died in the process.在我们之前尝试过这旅行的9人中,没有人是成功到达极点后又走回来的,有五人死于途中。03:06This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott.这位是罗伯特法尔考斯科特,03:16He led the last team to attempt this expedition.他带队作了最后的尝试。03:19Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton,over the space of adecade,both led expeditions battling to becom

18、e the first toreach the South Pole,to chart and map the interior ofAntarctica,a place we knew less about,at the time,than thesurface of the moon,because we could see the moon throughtelescopes.斯科特和竞争者欧内斯特沙克尔顿爵士,在十多年里,都力争成为第一个抵达南极点、第一个画出南极内陆地图的人。那时我们对那片土地知之甚少,-甚至不及月球表面。因为我们能从望远镜看到月球,03:22Antarctica w

19、as,for the most part,a century ago,uncharted.而南极洲在一个世纪前大部分地方都没地图。03:40Some of you may know the story.你们中有人也许听过这故事,03:44Scotts last expedition,the Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,started as a giant siege-style approach.1910年,斯科特对新大陆作了他最后一次探险,带着胸中的万丈豪情。03:46He had a big team using ponies,using dogs,usin

20、g petrol-driven tractors,dropping multiple,pre-positioned depots offood and fuel through which Scotts final team of five wouldtravel to the Pole,where they would turn around and skiback to the coast again on foot.他人力充足。在种马,狗,汽动机,足量食物及燃油的条件下,斯科特的五人小队将会到达极点,然后,他们掉头返回,用双脚丈量海岸。03:51Falcon:n.鸟猎鹰;鸟隼 battl

21、ing:n.战役;斗争/vi.斗争;作战/vt.与作战 for the most part:adv.在极大程度上,多半uncharted:adj.未知的;图上未标明的 Terra:n.地;地球;土地 ponies:n.小马(pony的复数形式)/v.借助直译本翻译;支付;清偿(pony的第三人称单数形式)tractors:n.农机拖拉机,牵引器;车辆牵引车 depots:n.建经仓库;堆场(depot的复数形式)turn around:转向反方向;(生意或经济)好转;船只留港 ski:n.滑雪橇/vi.滑雪/adj.滑雪(用)的Scott and his final team of five

22、arrived at the South Pole inJanuary 1912 to find they had been beaten to it by aNorwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,who rode ondogsled.1912年一月,斯科特和他的五人小分队到达了南极点。但不巧,他们发现由挪威人罗尔德阿蒙森领头的小队 已然领先。04:07Scotts team ended up on foot.斯科特及队员们徒步前行。04:19And for more than a century this journey has remainedunfin

23、ished.然而,已经过了一个世纪,漫漫旅途无果而终。04:21Scotts team of five died on the return journey.斯科特的五人小分队,死于归途。04:26And for the last decade,Ive been asking myself why that is.过去十年来,我不断自问;为何？04:29How come this has remained the high-water mark?何以它仍为人类巅峰？04:34Scotts team covered 1,600 miles on foot.斯科特的团队共计步行1600英里。04:

24、38No ones come close to that ever since.前无古人,后无来者。04:40So this is the high-water mark of human endurance,humanendeavor,human athletic achievement in arguably theharshest climate on Earth.这是人类耐力顶峰,人们共同努力的结晶。人类极限运动的巅峰。况且,四目所及,天寒地坼。04:42It was as if the marathon record has remained unbrokensince 1912.就

25、好比马拉松记录,自1912年以来都不曾被打破似的。04:50And of course some strange and predictable combination ofcuriosity,stubbornness,and probably hubris led me tothinking I might be the man to try to finish the job.好奇,混杂着第六感,随风而来。固执,可能还有些许傲慢,让我跃跃欲试。04:56dogsled:n.狗拖的雪橇 high-water:adj.高水位的;满潮的;裤子特别短的 endeavor:n.努力;尽力(等于end

26、eavour)/vi.努力;尽力(等于endeavour)/vt.努力;尽力(等于endeavour)arguably:adv.可论证地;可争辩地;正如可提出证据加以证明的那样地/广义用法可能,大概 unbroken:adj.未破损的,完整的;继续的;未被阻断的 predictable:adj.可预言的 hubris:n.傲慢;狂妄自大Unlike Scotts expedition,there were just two of us,and weset off from the coast of Antarctica in October last year,dragging everyth

27、ing ourselves,a process Scott called man-hauling.不同于斯科特,我们相伴二人行。自去年10月,我们从南极洲海岸出发,荷重前行。即斯科特所谓的“人拖”。05:07When I say it was like walking from here to San Francisco and我刚才说,这就像从这儿到旧金山的往返路程。实际上,还要再拖个比美式橄榄球运动员 稍微重点的When I say it was like walking from here to San Francisco andback,I actually mean it was l

28、ike dragging something thatweighs a shade more than the heaviest ever NFL player.际上,还要再拖个比美式橄榄球运动员 稍微重点的东西。05:18Our sledges weighed 200 kilos,or 440 pounds each at thestart,the same weights that the weakest of Scotts poniespulled.我们的行李大约200公斤重 或者说,刚开始,每人负荷是440磅。这是斯科特团队中最瘦弱的种马拉的货物重量。05:27Early on,we

29、averaged 0.5 miles per hour.起先,我们平均一小时行进0.5英里,05:37Perhaps the reason no one had attempted this journey untilnow,in more than a century,was that no one had been quitestupid enough to try.也许,超过一世纪,人们惶而畏之因,是真没有这么傻的人会尝试啊。05:40And while I cant claim we were exploring in the genuineEdwardian sense of the

30、 word?we werent naming anymountains or mapping any uncharted valleys?虽然我们不能像爱德华时代 的探索家那样,我们不是在为山命名或是标出任何未知的峡谷05:50set off:v.出发;引起;动身;使爆炸;抵销;分开 sledges:vt.用雪橇搬运;乘雪橇;用大锤打/vi.用大锤打;猛击;乘雪橇/n.雪橇;大锤kilos:n.公斤;千克 weights:n.物重量;计量砝码(weight的复数)/v.加重量于(weight的第三人称单数形式)averaged:v.平均(average的过去式)/adj.平均的 genuine

31、:adj.真实的，真正的；诚恳的 mapping:v.绘图;筹划(map的ing形式)/n.地图;绘图;数映像 valleys:n.山谷(valley的复数);凹处I think we were stepping into uncharted territory in a humansense.但我想我们踏入了一种人性的新区域。05:59Certainly,if in the future we learn there is an area of thehuman brain that lights up when one curses oneself,诚然,如果未来,我们得知人在赌咒时 大脑

32、一块区域会被激活,06:03I wont be at all surprised.对我来说,这没什么好惊讶的。06:10Youve heard that the average American spends 90 percentof their time indoors.你们己经知道美国人平均花90%在室内,06:13www.XiYuS锡育软件We didnt go indoors for nearly four months.我们会几乎四个月不出门。06:17We didnt see a sunset either.我们当然也看不到日落。06:21It was 24-hour daylig

33、ht.极点是24小时极昼,06:23Living conditions were quite spartan.生存条件恶劣。06:25I changed my underwear three times in 105 days and Tarkaand I shared 30 square feet on the canvas.在105天里,我换了3次内衣 我和队友共享30平方英尺的空间。06:27Though we did have some technology that Scott could neverhave imagined.确实我们有斯科特团队想都想不到的技术06:36And w

34、e blogged live every evening from the tent via a laptopand a custom-made satellite transmitter,all of which weresolar-powered:we had a flexible photovoltaic panel overthe tent.而且我们每晚都会通过笔记本电脑及简易制作的卫星信号转换器 发博客来证明我们还活着。这一切都是太阳能驱动的,在帐篷上,我们有可灵活移动的摄像头。06:40curses:n.诅咒,咒骂(curse的复数形式)/v.诅咒,咒骂(curse的第三人称单数)

35、/int.畜生 indoors:adv.在室内,在户内 spartan:adj.斯巴达的;斯巴达式的;(生活方式)简朴的,清苦的。/n.斯巴达人;勇士 underwear:n.内衣物 canvas:n.帆布/vt.用帆布覆盖,用帆布装备/adj.帆布制的 custom-made:adj.定制的/v.定做(custom-make的过去式)transmitter:n.电讯发射机,通信发报机;传达人 solar-powered:adj.太阳能的 photovoltaic:adj.电子光电伏打的,光电的And the writing was important to me.写下经历对我来说也很重要。0

36、6:50As a kid,I was inspired by the literature of adventure andexploration,and I think weve all seen here this week theimportance and the power of storytelling.孩提时,我被冒险和探索小说鼓舞了 我想,这周,我们已经看到 叙述故事的重要性及其力量06:53So we had some 21st-century gear,but the reality is that thechallenges that Scott faced were t

37、he same that we faced:those of the weather and of what Scott called glide,theamount of friction between the sledges and the snow.综上所述,我们有21世纪的现代化设备 但现实是,斯科特团队面临的挑战 于我们而言,同样存在;天气恶劣,以及 雪橇及雪之间大量的摩擦产生的斯科特称之为“滑动”的作用力。07:07The lowest wind chill we experienced was in the-70s,and wehad zero visibility,whats

38、 called white-out,for much of ourjourney.风力最低也是70mps 伸手不见五指这就是所谓的白茫茫一片。我们旅程大多数时候都是这样的。07:20We traveled up and down one of the largest and mostdangerous glaciers in the world,the Beardmore glacier.我们穿行在世界上最大,也是最危险的 冰川之一,比尔德莫尔冰川之上。07:30Its 110 miles long;most of its surface is whats called blueice.它长达

39、110米,表层大部分由一种叫蓝冰的物质覆盖。07:35You can see its a beautiful,shimmering steel-hard bluesurface covered with thousands and thousands of crevasses,these deep cracks in the glacial ice up to 200 feet deep.你们可以看到,它是美丽却难以使车轮前行的光滑冰川 它由数以千计的溶洞覆盖 最深处可达200英尺深。07:39storytelling:n.讲故事;说谎话/adj.讲故事的;说谎的 glide:n.滑翔;滑行;

40、滑移;滑音/vt.滑翔;滑行;悄悄地走;消逝/vi.使滑行;使滑动 friction:n.摩擦,力摩擦力 lowest:adj.最低的;最小的(low的最高级);最底下的 white-out:n.极地大暴风雪;疏排;修正液 up and down:上上下下;到处;前前后后;来来往往 glaciers:n.地理水文冰川(glacier的复数);地理水文冰河 glacier:n.冰河,冰川 shimmering:adj.闪烁的;微微发亮的/v.闪耀(shimmer进行式)crevasses:n.裂缝;破口,崩溃处 cracks:n.高分子裂缝,裂纹;龟裂(crack的复数形式);板间间隙/v.使破

41、裂;砰地一声打开(crack的三单形式)glacial:adj.冰的;冰冷的;冰河时代的Planes cant land here,so we were at the most risk,technically,when we had the slimmest chance of beingrescued.飞机无法着陆,所以我们的生命岌岌可危,我们生还的几率近乎为零。07:50We got to the South Pole after 61 days on foot,with one dayoff for bad weather,and Im sad to say,it was someth

42、ing ofan anticlimax.除了有一天因为天气状况太糟糕而停止行进 再去南极点的路上在徒步走了61天后 我要说,这确实难于上青天。08:00Theres a permanent American base,the Amundsen-ScottSouth Pole Station at the South Pole.这里有个永久的美国基地,-在南极点的阿姆森-斯科特极点考察站。08:09They have an airstrip,they have a canteen,they have hotshowers,they have a post office,a tourist sho

43、p,a basketballcourt that doubles as a movie theater.那儿有停机坪厨房,热水浴。有邮局,游轮,以及两倍于一个电影院的篮球场。08:15So its a bit different these days,and there are also acres ofjunk.所以,这些天略有不同 也有成堆的垃圾。08:24I think its a marvelous thing that humans can exist 365 daysof the year with hamburgers and hot showers and movietheat

44、ers,but it does seem to produce a lot of emptycardboard boxes.我觉得人类一年365天 只靠汉堡,热水和影院就能生活 简直不可思议。但这似乎确实产生了许多空纸板盒。08:27at the most:至多,不超过 rescued:救援 anticlimax:n.突降法;虎头蛇尾;令人扫兴的结尾 airstrip:n.飞机跑道 canteen:n.食堂,小卖部;水壶 showers:n.气象阵雨(shower的复数形式);淋浴站,淋浴设备 acres:n.英亩(acre的复数)hamburgers:n.汉堡包(hamburger的复数)t

45、heaters:n.影剧院,剧院(theater复数)cardboard:n.纸硬纸板;纸板箱;卡纸板/adj.不真实的;硬纸板制的You can see on the left of this photograph,several squareacres of junk waiting to be flown out from the South Pole.你可以看到在这张照片的左面,有好几平方的垃圾等着从南极点拖走。08:40But there is also a pole at the South Pole,and we got thereon foot,unassisted,unsup

46、ported,by the hardest route,900miles in record time,dragging more weight than anyone inhistory.但南极也有个极点,我们没有技术支持 走最困难的路线 共计900英里 而且负重超过史上任何一位考察队员。08:46And if wed stopped there and flown home,which wouldhave been the eminently sensible thing to do,then my talkwould end here and it would end something

47、 like this.而如果我们止步于此,折返离开,去做更有意义的事那我的演讲也就到此为止了。也就不足为奇。09:00If you have the right team around you,the right tools,theright technology,and if you have enough self-belief andenough determination,then anything is possible.但如果你有优秀的团队,适宜的工具险情的科技 而且,自信满满意志坚定 那一切险阻当不在话下。09:10But then we turned around,and th

48、is is where things getinteresting.但那时,我们四周晃了会儿,然后一切变得有趣起来了。09:24High on the Antarctic plateau,over 10,000 feet,its verywindy,very cold,very dry,we were exhausted.在亚特兰地高地,超过10000英尺的地方,寒风凛冽天寒地燥,我们精疲力竭。09:30flown:v.fly的过去分词 unassisted:adj.无助的(等于unaided)unsupported:adj.无支持的,无赞助的;未经证实的;没有支撑的 eminently:ad

49、v.突出地;显著地 self-belief:自我信念 plateau:n.高原/n.地名肯尼亚,美国普拉托/n.(活动或进程中的)稳定阶段,停滞时期/adj.高原印第安人的 windy:adj.多风的,有风的;腹胀的;吹牛的Wed covered 35 marathons,we were only halfway,and wehad a safety net,of course,of ski planes and satellite phonesand live,24-hour tracking beacons that didnt exist for Scott,but in hindsig

50、ht,rather than making our lives easier,thesafety net actually allowed us to cut things very fine indeed,to sail very close to our absolute limits as human beings.我们翻阅了35座冰川 但这只是路途一半。但我们肯定有安全措施,我们有雪上飞机和卫星电话。以及24小时时刻待命的后援团,斯科特可没有这些安全措施。但从制高点来看,安全措施并未使我们的生活更好 它确实际上 使东西四分五裂。让我们无限接近人类极限。09:36And it is an